Antarctica Travel Blog Nov 16th: Iceberg Challenge!

Icebergs in the Southern Ocean - Photo by Laurie Allread

Icebergs in the Southern Ocean - Photo by Laurie Allread


November 16th — 6:15 am
The view from the bridge was of calm sea with light visibility of about 300 meter. At times there is light snow. The wind makes the air almost too cold to leave the porthole open in my cabin. Sailing through the shrieking 60s now we begin our look out for icebergs. The expedition leader, Mike Messiok, gave us a challenge — first one to view a an iceberg and rushes to the bridge to announce it wins a bottle of champagne. I better start looking!

November 16th — 6:45 pm
Location 64 Degrees Latitude and 180 Longitude
The first iceberg was spotted with the assistance of binoculars. According to radar, it was about 19 miles from the ship when it was first spotted. Now that we are in the ice, the expedition leader gave a brief lecture about the excursions we may take during the two weeks in the Ross Sea after the Kaptain Khlebnikov is parked in the ice. It is impossible to determine which excursions we will take or when we will be at the first possible stop which is Coulman Island to visit an Emperor Penguin rookery. Coulman Island is over 300 miles of ice and some open sea from our current location. Even with the ice charts and modern equipment, it is difficult to determine the best route to the Coulman Island as the wind can change the ice conditions very quickly. Breaking through ice is not easy without the correct weather conditions. During our next two weeks in the Ross Sea area, “weather permitting” will be the most common phrase on the ship.

(This is Laurie’s fourth visit to Antarctica. She is blogging her way through this epic month-long Antarctica trip; the Kapitan Khlebnikov’s Ross Sea Centennial Voyage. Tune in for daily updates from the field. Pictures from Laurie’s past Antarctica travels are found on her website.)

Antarctica Travel Blog Nov 15: Calm seas in the Southern Ocean

Antarctica travel photo by Laurie Allread

Antarctica travel photo by Laurie Allread


NOVEMBER 15TH TUESDAY — SOUTHERN OCEAN 7AM
Last night we were warned to expect the worst and to secure our items in our cabins. Surprisingly, most of us, I believe, slept well through the night to awake to very calm seas. The Southern Ocean has been flat like a lake nearly all day. We are ahead of schedule and should be in the pack ice by tomorrow at 10.

November 15th 7pm
Lectures about albatrosses and geology kept most of the travelers busy all day. While others conversed with the staff, edited images and wrote in their journals. By dinner we were in the shrieking sixties, an area that known for having some of the roughest waves and highest winds in the world. Instead, the water continued to calms us with its gentle rolls. The best announcement of the day is that the icepack is a mere 417 miles away!!

(This is Laurie’s fourth visit to Antarctica. She is blogging her way through this epic month-long Antarctica trip; the Kapitan Khlebnikov’s Ross Sea Centennial Voyage. Tune in for daily updates from the field. Pictures from Laurie’s past Antarctica travels are found on her website.)

Antarctica Travel Blog Nov 14: Courtship of Southern Royal Albatrosses on Campbell Island

Photo by Laurie Allread - Taken enroute to Snow Hill on her 2008 Antarctica

Photo by Laurie Allread - Taken enroute to Snow Hill on her 2008 Antarctica


Monday – Nov. 14, 2011

This morning we arrived at Perseverance Harbor, Campbell Island about 8am. Wind was 30 knots and temperature about 40 F degrees. The 100 passengers were divided into several groups by ability: ie. fast to slow walkers. The goal was to complete the 2.5 mile walk with 811 feet elevation gain to the top of the island to view the south side of the island. We hoped to see Southern Royal Albatrosses. Much to our surprise, we watched several pairs doing their courtship rituals including mutual preening.. We were careful to not interrupt the birds which was somewhat difficult as the big birds nested right beside the one foot wide boardwalk.

After lunch, we headed south out of the Perseverance Harbor. Next stop is Antarctica. The expedition leader, Mike Messick, announced that that now would be a good time to take a shower as the next two days are expected to be rough. The rolling is already 15 to 30 degrees at times. The Captain just closed the bridge as the rolling is exaggerated on the higher decks.

Everyone seems to be in the lounge on the 5th floor or in their rooms. Finally, we are now in the Southern Ocean where the waves are expected to be very high until we arrive are the ice.

(This is Laurie’s fourth visit to Antarctica. She is blogging her way through this epic month-long Antarctica trip; the Kapitan Khlebnikov’s Ross Sea Centennial Voyage. Tune in for daily updates from the field. Pictures from Laurie’s past Antarctica travels are found on her website.)

Antarctica Travel Blog Nov 11: Preventing Pathogens, Welcome Cocktails and Meeting the Captain

Laurie Allread prepares for her fourth voyage to Antarctica. This picture was taken on her trip to Snow Hill in 2008

Laurie Allread prepares for her fourth voyage to Antarctica. This picture was taken on her trip to Snow Hill in 2008


Friday – Nov. 11, 2011

This afternoon we conducted bio security which entailed of vacuuming out our personal backpacks and outer gear to prevent pathogens from being introduced into the delicate environment of the Subantarctic Islands. Also, attendance of the zodiac briefing was required to ensure everyone’s personal safety.

Pete McClelland from the New Zealand Department of Conservation gave a lecture about the unique plant life and wildlife on the Subantarctic Islands. The New Zealand government requires a permit to land on all these Islands. Additionally there are many rules regarding the times permitted to enter and the number of people to enter at once. Pete said that the islands are for the birds, thus we are merely visitors. Our visit to Snares Island tomorrow is the first of our many explorations of this region. The stars of these islands are the Yellow Eyed Penguin and Erect Crested penguin that are endemic to these islands. Many travelers are to see those birds to complete their list of the 17 penguin species. Everyone was excited to meet the Captain and his officers at the Welcome Cocktail party. The Captain, Viktror Vasil Yev, has operated the Kapitan Khlebnikov for many years. I’m confident he will get us to the Ross Ice Shelf with a safe return to Australia on December 7th. Sposibo, Captain Vasil yev! For being our Captain! New Russian word of the day “Sposibo” — Thank you.

(This is Laurie’s fourth visit to Antarctica. She is blogging her way through this epic month-long Antarctica trip; the Kapitan Khlebnikov’s Ross Sea Centennial Voyage. Tune in for daily updates from the field. Pictures from Laurie’s past Antarctica travels are found on her website.)

Laurie Allread Antarctica Travel Blog: Anticipation in Christchurch, NZ

Laurie Allread prepares for her fourth voyage to Antarctica.  This picture was taken on her trip to Snow Hill in 2008

Laurie Allread prepares for her fourth voyage to Antarctica. This picture was taken on her trip to Snow Hill in 2008


Tuesday – November 8, 2011:

Anticipation is increasing. Tonight, I will meet the other travelers at a welcome dinner, then, in less than 36 hours, we will be on the Kapitan Khlebnikov departing Lyttelton. From my past Antarctica trips, I recall an exhilarating yet scary feeling watching the land become smaller and smaller and finally disappearing while the icebreaker departs the harbor.

During the first seven days, we will see no land except for the small Subantarctic Islands, Snares, Auckland and Campbell Islands. All of these islands are World Heritage Sites and landing is only allowed by permit. Weather permitting; we will use the zodiacs to visit the unique wildlife and plant life on these islands.

The following two days will be in open sea crossing the roaring 50′s and 60′s of the Southern Ocean. I wonder if the Southern Ocean will live up to its reputation of being some of the planet’s largest waves and highest winds. I can’t help but think about the movie “The Perfect Storm”.

Nevertheless, I remain with optimistic anticipation. I’m in good hands with the crew of the Kapitan Khlebnikov.

(This is Laurie’s fourth visit to Antarctica. She is blogging her way through this epic month-long Antarctica trip; the Kapitan Khlebnikov’s Ross Sea Centennial Voyage. Tune in for daily updates from the field. Pictures from Laurie’s past Antarctica travels are found on her website.)

Featured Trip: Huaorani EcoLodge in the Ecuadorian Amazon

Huaorani guide, Eme, shows us how hunters call a toucan

Huaorani guide, Eme, shows us how hunters call a toucan


Visiting the community of Quehueri’ono

Visiting the community of Quehueri’ono


New for 2012, Adventure Life’s 7-day Huaorani EcoLodge trip is designed to immerse travelers in the people and environments of the Amazon. Trip includes multiple hikes, waterfall excursion, Amazon camping, visits with Huaorani community and 4 to 6 hour sea kayaking excursions on the twisted Shiripuno River. Accommodations at the Hauoarni Lodge and campsite are comfortable but basic.

An all round cool adventure in the Amazon, but that’s only the beginning…

A visit to the Huaorani Lodge is about learning about the remarkable Amazon forest from the people who have lived here for centuries. Community interaction and education is a significant part of this itinerary. The Huaorani Lodge is a community owned and operated lodge – designed specifically to help preserve the territory and traditions of the Huaorani community.

The fight to protect the Huaorani culture and environment first came to the fore in the mid nineteen nineties. Moi Enomenga of the Quehueri’ono community was featured by the New Yorker magazine and was the principle character of Joe Kane’s book ‘Savages’ (1995); an NBC television documentary later told of his struggle to protect his people’s land from oil companies. Moi’s experiences gave him a new perspective. He came to believe that ecotourism could provide a means by which his people might receive an income while maintaining the integrity of their culture and conserving their rainforest territory.

The ecolodge is one of the outcomes of Moi’s vision. The project to build and run the lodge was developed by the Ecotourism Association of Quehueri’ono – representing five communities on the upper Shiripuno River – and a well know pioneer ecotourism operator based in Quito. Low impact and local participation were given priority.

Carefully chosen expert guides (who have spent significant time with the Huaorani) and Huaorani community members join travelers throughout this trip. Not only are travelers accompanied by local guides on this trip, but they will also spend time visiting the Huaorani Community of Quehueri’ono. There is no set agenda for the community visits – sometimes visits will include a welcome ceremony, sometimes a dance, sometimes travelers are welcomed into a household for the afternoon, sometimes they help the Huaorani in the field… It all depends on what the community’s agenda is for the day. Travelers can also purchase crafts directly from community members. It is very common for community members to causally stop at the lodge and campsite to visit travelers.

Waterfall retreat from Nenkepare campsite

Waterfall retreat from Nenkepare campsite


Unique for our Adventure Life Amazon tour is the extensive sea kayaking excursions on the Shiripuno. Travelers will actually provide their own means of transportation from the lodge to the campsite by sea kayak, allowing for an intimate view of the jungle. This itinerary includes time at the lodge, as well as an overnight at the lodge’s newly developed campsite, Nenkepare. Like the lodge, the remote campsite is only accessible by the Shiripuno and allows access to a trail to a waterfall. A secluded, beautiful, refreshing waterfall (I speak from personal experience).

The Huaorani Lodge is one of the lodges that Adventure Life has worked with on an USAID funded project with the Rainforest Alliance. The purpose of this project is to support to community owned lodges in the Ecuadorian Amazon. The goals of this project include the preservation of at least 200,000 hectares of Amazonian rainforest in Ecuador — combined with training and technical assistance to community-owned lodges located in or adjacent to protected areas. The focus is on reducing negative impacts associated with tourism — and reevaluating the most successful and practical practices of responsible tourism. The Huaorani Lodge – as all lodges involved in the project – specifically requested to be involved.

Adventure Life traveler, Laurie Allread, explains why Antarctica beckons her return . . .

Preparing to return to Antarctica for a fourth visit, Adventure Life traveler, Laurie Allread, explains a little about why Antarctica continues to beckon her return again … and again. Laurie will be joining us on the Kapitan Khlebnikov’s Ross Sea Centennial Voyage. This is the final season the Kapitan is taking travelers to the polar regions — departing Nov. 9, 2011, this trip will be an epic month-long Antarctica adventure. Pictures from Laurie’s past Antarctica travels are found on her website. One look, and you’ll understand why she just can’t keep away.

Laurie Allread and Emperor Penguins on Antarctica's Snow Hill

Laurie Allread and Emperor Penguins on Antarctica's Snow Hill

By Laurie Allread
Iceberg! Iceberg! Everyone grabs their parkas and runs outside to the deck while other passengers view the sculptured ice from inside the warm ship while sipping hot cocoa. I’m getting near my destination I recall thinking. Antarctica is near. Now, as I prepare for the fourth trip to the white continent, I dream of seeing that first iceberg.

It is nearly impossible to explain what lures me back to the white continent for the fourth time. The first trip to Antarctica was to the peninsula for mere curiosity. The next two trips were to Snow Hill Island in the Weddell Sea to visit the emperor penguin rookeries. Each time I said it would be the last, but, now I find myself again traveling on the Russian Icebreaker, Kaptian Khlebnikov. This time I will travel from Christchurch, New Zealand to Antarctica for a 29 day expedition. Once again, friends wonder what lures me back. Undoubtedly, Antarctica is like no other place on earth but it is the adventure, uncertainty and the senses she stirs in me that lures me back.

Adventure always begins at departure. The duration of the voyage, the roughness of the seas or when the first iceberg will appear is always uncertain. This trip will be longer and rougher than the prior trips that departed from South America as I will travel through the roaring forties, furious fifties and shrieking sixties. These areas are known for their unpredictable high winds and large waves. Just imagine, Robert Scott traveled this same route Antarctica exactly 100 years ago in his wooden vessel the Terra Nova .

As a person who dislikes predictability, the uncertainty of Antarctica intrigues me. Everything about travel to Antarctica is uncertain. The environment dictates your every move. Each day is a surprise. I’ve trekked across the ice during a sunny day to see wildlife, had expeditions canceled due to severe whiteout conditions and been stuck in the ice for days. During this trip, weather permitting, I hope to visit the huts of the historic explorers and fly in helicopters along the Ross Ice Shelf and the Dry Valley.

No place stirs my senses as strongly as Antarctica. The ever changing light creates reflections in the ice and changes the vivid colors to pastels and back again. The numerous shades of blue and white go on forever. There is little point of reference to determine distance or size. I feel so small in the vast icy wilderness. It is an eerie feeling. Still, I feel so confident standing on the bow of the ship while it loudly breaks through the thick ice. But when the ship is parked in the ice, there may be complete silence with the exception of the cracking ice or the splash of a penguin or seal.

Happily, I have been lured back again but, this time I am not placing any bets about this being my last journey to the white continent.

Purchasing Passes for Hikes at Machu Picchu

Happy trekker at the top of Huayna Picchu Peak

Happy trekker at the top of Huayna Picchu Peak

Hiking the ruins of Machu Picchu itself can be enough for some travelers. But there are some amazing peaks to trek while at the ruins — and offer a rare perspective to the legendary Inca ruins. The catch? There’s a fee, and you’ll want to do a little planning in advance to save your spot. Here are some helpful details.

Huayna Picchu
Huayna Picchu or Wayna Picchu (Young Peak) is that iconic peak you see behind Machu Picchu in all of the postcards. Hikers start in the morning at Sacred Rock and pass through a gate that is open 7:00AM to 1:00PM. The hike is a 1-2 hour steep hike on a well-established trail, but the last 65 feet (20 meters) is a steep rock slab that is climbed with a ladder and a rope. Take care when the weather is wet, as it can be slippery. The summit provides a great view of the ruins as they spread out below you. Only 400 people are permitted on this hike per day, so if Huayna Picchu is on your to-do list, I highly recommend purchasing the $10 per person admission with us ahead of time.

Views from Machu Picchu Mountain

Views from Machu Picchu Mountain

Machu Picchu Mountain
Another hiking alternative is Machu Picchu Mountain (Old Peak), which is the higher peak towering above the ruins opposite Huayna Picchu. This is a lesser known, 2-3 hour hike up, sometimes steep, stone steps through the forested mountainside. The summit provides a truly bird’s eye view of the ruins and breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains. The last start time is 2:00PM. This hike is $5 per person; we can also help travelers purchase these ahead of time, but there is no limit.

The hike up to the Sun Gate is free and provides a priceless view of the ruins.

It should be noted that Machu Picchu itself has daily restrictions on the number of visitors allowed into the site. The number is capped at 2500 visitors a day. Daily passes into the ruins are $55. It is also recommended to purchase these tickets in advance, especially if you are planning your Peru trip during busy season or during an important festival, such as Inti Raymi. During this past July’s 100th Anniversary celebrations, the site met capacity a number of days.

Adventure Life Sports Sponsorship Program

Adventure Life Rock Stars soccer team photo

Adventure Life Rock Stars soccer team photo

This year Adventure Life has kicked off our Sports Sponsorship Program. When we’re not exploring places like Peru, Nicaragua, trekking Patagonia or cruising Antarctica, Adventure Lifers find time to volunteer around Missoula and be as active as we can! Thus the Adventure Life Sports Sponsorship Program was born in an effort to support our staff and the community in which we live. Applications quickly rolled in for soccer teams, volleyball teams, relay races and more! Now that the summer soccer season has ended, here’s a report on the teams:

We checked in with two of our fearless leaders, Jonathan Brunger and Julia Kocubinski. At times, they had to put aside their Adventure Lifer camaraderie and battle it out on the field as their teams fought for standing in the Missoula Park and Rec Summer Soccer League.

Julia's Adventure Life soccer team

Julia's Adventure Life soccer team

Julia has been playing with her co-rec team for three years. Although they maybe lacking a bit in the area of hardcore “soccer players”, they are all athletes and spend time playing volleyball, running, and just have fun in general together. This year was a chance for improvement as they faced off against teams in a more competitive league. As the bar was raised, they noticed their skills improving as individuals and a team. Although they finished the season in the middle of their league, Julia reminded us that they beat the other Adventure Life team. The highlight of the season for her was scoring the winning goal against Jonathan’s team!

The Adventure Life Rock Stars, Jonathan’s team, have been around too long to remember, at least ten years. Many Adventure Life staff members (past and present), their partners, and friends have worn the Rock Stars jerseys over the years. Twice in the last six years their team has won the co-rec city championship and several times they have been runners-up as well. (Although there were claims that it may have been the referees’ fault they didn’t win those years.)

This year was a fun season for the Rock Stars despite not being as successful as past years. Even though the average age of players has increased by a decade since the team was formed and they are still pulling out plays and making goals. The number of spouses and kids cheering them on from the sidelines has increased as well. They’ve discovered that their kids (the next generation of “Rock Stars”) happen to be their team’s biggest critics as well. “Why didn’t you score?” “Why is your knee hurting?” Just trying to keep Mom and Dad in line and striving for perfection!

Julia and Jonathan battle it out for the championship trophy

Julia and Jonathan battle it out for the championship trophy

Congratulations to both teams on a successful season. Adventure Life has been proud to sponsor you!

New York Times Highlights Latin America Bargains

Travelers looking for bargains should look towards Latin America.  Like our Guatemala Classico trip 6-days for $795

Travelers looking for bargains should look towards Latin America. Like our Guatemala Classico trip 6-days for $795


Last week, the New York Times did a feature on ways to save on your next trip, calling attention to Latin America bargains. A few of our favorite destinations where mentioned: Argentina, Belize, Nicaragua, and Panama. The article noted what we’ve known for years — that many times travelers can find top of the line adventures at a fraction of the price that they would pay in the US or Europe. For those looking for a great trip at a great value, here are a handful of my favorites.

Cotopaxi Trekking Ecuador
7-days for $950
Hike in the shadows of the Cotopaxi Volcano and follow the ancient roads of the Incas during our 5 day/4 night trekking trip. Experience the hacienda culture of the Andean highlands and explore Inca sites during an active trekking circuit near the Cotopaxi National Park and in the Condor Biosphere. Includes two nights in Quito before and after the trek.

Bolivia’s Jesuit Missions
5-days at $770
Thought to be “forgotten” for more than two centuries, the region of Bolivia’s restored Jesuit Missions is a UNESCO-listed World Heritage site for its cultural accomplishments and history. Includes San Javier, Concepcion, San Ignacio, San Miguel, San Rafael, and Santa Ana.

Awesome Argentina
8-days for $1525
Travel through the southern reaches of Argentina, taking in the highlights of Patagonia. Includes Buenos Aires, Ushuaia, Beagle Channel, Gable Island, Tierra del Fuego, Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, El Calafate and hiking on Perito Moreno Glacier.

Guatemala Classico
6-days for $795
A great introduction to Guatemala, this trip visits the celebrated market of Chichicastenango and explores the inviting colonial city of Antigua. Spend the next couple nights along the beautiful shores of volcano-fringed Lake Atitlan.

For more Latin America bargains, take a look at our ongoing and special discounts available and upcoming trips.

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