Jen Gets SCUBA Certified

When shes not earning her SCUBA certification, shes hanging out next to volcanoes in Guatemala

When she's not earning her SCUBA certification, Jen's hanging out next to volcanoes in Guatemala


Adventure Life’s own Jennifer Barile is earning her SCUBA certification. One of our incredible Trip Coordinators, Jen is adding SCUBA to her list of outdoor hobbies that include rock and ice-climbing, trekking, camping and cross-country skiing. Adventure Life supplies our full-time employees with funding for continuing education opportunities. In the past, staff members have taken advantage of this perk to pursue interests as varied as our personalities. This includes Spanish classes, web development, kayaking lessons, Latin America economy courses, accounting … and now SCUBA classes. Jen’s SCUBA certification incorporates classroom work with time in the pool. The class finishes with an open-water in Montana’s Flathead Lake in the first weekend of October. Brrrr – I’ve been in Flathead in October and it’s … brisk. Wetsuits are recommended. Jen hopes to use her new certification exploring Belize’s Barrier Reef as soon as humanly possible. And if I ask nicely, she might invite me to join her.

Actun Tunichil Muknal: Journey to the Maya Underworld

Traveler and guide cross a river while hiking to Actun Tunichil Muknal

Traveler and guide cross a river while hiking to Actun Tunichil Muknal


Ancient Maya pottery in the Actun Tunichil cave

Ancient Maya pottery in the Actun Tunichil cave


One of natures incredible formations in the ATM cave

One of nature's incredible formations in the ATM cave


Headlights on helmets light the way through the ATM cave to the Cathedral

Headlights on helmets light the way through the ATM cave to the Cathedral


Skull from one of the skeletons found in The Cathedral

Skull from one of the skeletons found in The Cathedral


Traveler, Elizabeth Coughlan, shares some of her experiences exploring the Actun Tunichil Muknal (or ATM) cave in Belize. Learn a little about the logistics, the how-tos and what to expect. I can tell you from personal experience, you can prepare all you want for this tour, but there is no way to predict what the journey to this archaeological treasure will mean to you. I’ll try and avoid sentimentality, but the ATM cave is exceptional and dramatic. It pulses with energy — its intriguing history is easily rivaled by its surprising beauty. I had the privilege to explore ATM in 2005, and it is still stands out as one of the most memorable experiences I have ever encountered in my travels.

By Elizabeth Coughlan
Our tour of the Actun Tunichil Muknal (ATM) cave in Belize was a truly amazing experience, and not for the faint-hearted! Although you don’t have to be an experienced rock climber to explore the cave, you do need to be in good shape to cope with the ruggedness of the terrain. But we wouldn’t have missed it for anything!

The Actun Tunichil Muknal cave (Cave of the Stone Sepulcher) was, and is, a sacred place for the Mayas. They possibly thought that caves led to the underworld (Xibalba), and were places of sacrifice and religious ceremonies to the gods there. The site was excavated between 1996 and 2000 and about 200 pottery pieces and 14 skeletons were discovered. Many of these remain in the cave today, and excavation continue, making it a living museum.

The ATM cave is located in Belize’s 6,700-acre Tapir Mountain Nature Reserve, and due to its historical significance and fragility, only a few tour companies are licensed to take trips there. We were advised to wear shorts and T-shirts with socks and closed-toe shoes or boots and to take extra clothing to change into at the end of the tour. You’re going to get wet on this adventure. Swim suits are not necessary, but quick-dry clothing is recommended. It was also impressed upon us that, for our own safety, we had to comply with the guide’s instructions and keep with the group at all times.

We left San Ignacio at 8:30 a.m. and drove for about 45 minutes, until we arrived at the Tapir Mountain Nature Reserve. Once there, Carlos and Jaime, our guides, gave us helmets, dry bags and lunch packs in preparation for our trek through the jungle. Our trek took us over three lots of river, through knee-deep water and over slippery rocks, but it wasn’t really hard going. As we hiked, Jaime and Carlos told us about various plants on the way, accompanied by the all-too-human screeches of the howler monkeys. Apparently, there also tapir, jaguar, silky anteaters and white-tailed deer in the jungle, but, unsurprisingly, we didn’t see anything as we crashed about on the uneven ground. We did see lots of termites though, and some of our party even ate some, at Jaime’s prompting. Yuk!

After about an hour, we arrived at the encampment, in front of the entrance to the cave, where we ate lunch and divested ourselves of everything but our cameras and the clothes we were wearing. The hourglass-shaped entrance to the cave is filled with blue-green water, shimmering among the moss-covered rocks and lush jungle foliage. We divided into two groups and, helmets on and cameras in the dry bags, we ventured into the water and the darkness of the cave. After the heat of the jungle, it was refreshing, although rather eerie as only our headlamps lit our way ahead. Tiny fish nibbled at our legs and suddenly there was a great fluttering of wings as our shrieks disturbed the bats from their sleep; we were grateful for the helmets!

After the short swim, we climbed out onto dry land and clambered up over the rocks. Our headlamps flashed around the cave as we ducked and dove, picking out the stalactites and stalagmites and white flowstone hanging like drapes. For about 2 hours, we slithered in and out of water as we slowly progressed through the cave, until we reached a large dry cathedral-like cavern. Here, we had to take off our shoes and carry on in our socks to preserve the floor of the cave from damage by the oil in our skin and because, for the local people, this is still a sacred place.

This was the ancient place of sacrifice for the Mayas. Bits of broken pottery, dating back a thousand years, littered the floor. In the light from our headlamps, we glimpsed the occasional skull and the remains of 6 of the 14 skeletons already discovered by archaeologists. Jaime then led us up a rickety ladder to a separate cavern where the skeleton of the “Cristal Lady” lay, so-called because the dripping calcite has coated her bones. She is sprawled on the floor, with one leg akimbo, and is believed to have been about 16 to 19 years of age at her death. Hers is the only female skeleton – all the others are male. Archaeologists believe that she was sacrificed to Chac, a god of the underworld, to ask him for rain during a time of drought.

By this time, we were quite cold and tired and still had the return journey to do. There was no other way out, however, and the journey back I was grateful for the time to reflect. Everyone was quiet and thoughtful. We had seen something quite extraordinary. We finished our adventure exhausted and with a few acquired minor scrapes and bruises, but we had loved every minute. Would we do it again? In a heartbeat!

Little Drizzle Means Big Trouble in Desert City

Geysers in Chile's Atacama Desert

Geysers in Chile's Atacama Desert


Late last month, less then 1/100th of an inch of rain fell in the desert city of Iquique, Chile. Typically, drizzles don’t make headlines, but when a drizzle damages roofs, shuts down schools, and even knocks out power, the press — and bloggers — take notice. Located in the heart of Chile’s Atacama Desert, Iquique AVERAGES only roughly 0.02 inch of precipitation a year. Buildings and infrastructure are made to handle the sun, not rain; not even 1/100th of an inch. Vast and uniquely beautiful, the Atacama Desert is said to be the driest desert on earth. In some areas no precipitation has ever been recorded. The Associated Press elaborates about this peculiar wet-weather episode.

Adventure Life Earns the Deal of the Day

Approaching the remote La Selva Lodge - Ecuadorian Amazon

Approaching the remote La Selva Lodge - Ecuadorian Amazon


Travel writer, Mark Resnicoff and examiner.com feature our La Selva Ecuadorian Amazon trip as their “Deal of the day.”

Missoula, Montana ecotourism specialists Adventure Life are currently offering an awesome 75% discount on their September 2009 La Selva Lodge Ecuadorian Amazon tours. Even in today’s tough economic climate, this deal makes Amazon jungle explorations more affordable than ever.

Travelers reserving space on Adventure Life’s La Selva Lodge – Ecuadorian Amazon tours departing in September 2009 at the regular price of $1,045 can save $800 on the cost of a second traveler when sharing accommodations. That means the second traveler can experience the Ecuadorian Amazon for only $245, a 75% savings!

To read the entire feature, click here!

Best Ecolodges in Latin America

Traveler outside of her dome at Torres del Paines EcoCamp

Traveler outside of her dome at Torres del Paine's EcoCamp


EcoCamp at sunrise -- hard to beat that view

EcoCamp at sunrise -- hard to beat that view


A remote welcome from Sacha Lodge, in the Ecuadorian Amazon

A remote welcome from Sacha Lodge, in the Ecuadorian Amazon


Madidi River, enroute to Chalalan Lodge in Bolivia

Madidi River, enroute to Chalalan Lodge in Bolivia


Waterfall hike in the Costa Rican jungle during a stay at Selva Bananito

Waterfall hike in the Costa Rican jungle during a stay at Selva Bananito


Visit largest parrot and macaw clay lick in the 4.4 million acre Manu Biosphere Reserve

Visit largest parrot and macaw clay lick in the 4.4 million acre Manu Biosphere Reserve


From Patagonia to Costa Rica, traveler, Shannon Beineke, weighs in on ecolodges and some of the best places to relax your head, take in remarkable surroundings and enjoy examples of effective ecotourism at work.

By Shannon Beineke
Ecotourism has skyrocketed in recent years. As a result, many lodges around the world are now claiming to be eco-friendly, but it can be hard to tell which places are truly considerate of environmental issues. Fortunately, the very best eco-lodges in Latin America leave zero room for doubt.

EcoCamp in Patagonia
In Patagonia of Chile, EcoCamp helps visitors make minimal impact on the environment. The dome-shaped design was inspired by huts of the nomadic Kawesqar people. EcoCamp units are less vulnerable to 100 mph winds. While Kawesqar huts were made from local materials covered in animal skins, EcoCamp domes are made from sturdy materials collected outside of Torres del Paine National Park. Each foundation-free dome is removed seasonally so the land can fully recover, and using 17 hours of sun each day, solar panels power toilet fans and indoor lighting. It’s no wonder EcoCamp was the first Chilean hospitality company to receive the esteemed Enviromental Management Systems Certification: ISO 14001 from the SGS of Switzerland.

Sacha Lodge in Ecuador
Sacha Lodge is located on a private 5,000-acre reserve. Approximately 50 miles east of Coca in Ecuador, it’s nestled on Pilchicocha lagoon, near the dark and mysterious Napo river. This eco-friendly lodge is almost completely concealed by forestry. In fact, “Sacha” is the Quichua Indian word for “forest.” Each thatched-roof hut is made of local materials and screened in to keep insects at bay. A diesel generator powers the electricity. Remember, “lights off” is at 10:00 pm! Also, each unit has its own bathroom, complete with biodegradable soaps and shampoos. Runoff water is treated with ozone to keep the environment intact. With miles of footpaths and canoe routes nearby, Sacha Lodge is the ideal eco-friendly “home base” for Amazon Basin exploration.

Chalalan Lodge in Bolivia
The San Jos de Uchupiamonas are an indigenous Amazon community in Bolivia. They’ve lived in the Madidi National Park jungle for centuries. With help from Conservation International, the natives built solar-powered cabins and created Chalalan Lodge. Traditional building styles and local Madidi materials were used to keep construction eco-friendly. Now guests can enjoy home-cooked meals, musical shows, dances, and even moon-lit canoe rides. All of the proceeds help over 100 local families sustain life in the Amazonian jungle. Their precious home is among the most ecologically sensitive areas in the world, so it needs to be respected and protected. Be prepared for a trip! Chalalan is a 5-hour boat ride from the nearest town.

Selva Bananito in Costa Rica
Selva Bananito is run by Rain Forest Conservation Through Tourism, Inc. It’s the only eco-lodge in Costa Rica built with recycled waste wood. During construction, instead of being set in the forest, each cabin was placed in an area that had already been affected by humans. In addition, Selva Bananito doesn’t even offer electricity! This makes it ideal for an environmentally low-impact getaway. The lodge is located near Muchilla Mountain in Limon, at the south end of the Cordillera de Talamanca range; home to the gargantuan La Amistad Biosphere Reserve. Over 2 million acres of protected land in this area make the “green belt.” It’s the least-explored territory in all of Costa Rica, so Selva Bananito guests can discover unspoiled nature without harming it.

Manu Wildlife Center in Peru
The Manu Wildlife Center offers access to 40,000 acres of rainforest, with more than 30 miles of nearby footpaths to explore. Guests can see several species of monkeys and birds close up as they wander through the Amazon. They can also visit the largest tapir lick in the world, 120-foot-tall canopy platforms, or lakes full of hoatzins and giant otters. The Manu Wildlife Center offers a one-of-a-kind experience both outside and indoors. Guests can enjoy screened-in bungalows, electricity, showers with hot running water, and all-cedar walls. The lodge was built with salvaged wood from uprooted trees, gathered after flooding. This makes Manu an eco-friendly lodge, surrounded by one of the most magnificent creations in nature: the Amazon rain forest.

Lonesome George Might Be a Father Yet

Traveler, DeAnn Phillips, captures a picture of Lonesome George at the Charles Darwin Research Station

Traveler, DeAnn Phillips, captures a picture of Lonesome George at the Charles Darwin Research Station


Last week came news from the Galapagos National Park that Lonesome George — the last Pinta Island Tortoise in the world — may yet become a father. 5 perfect eggs were found in the nest of one of the two female tortoises that share a corral with ol’ George. It will be another 120-130 days before the incubation process is completed and before it is known if the eggs are viable.

Scientists at the Charles Darwin Research Station have been attempting to breed George with tortoises similar to Pinta subspecies since 1972. Last summer — over thirty-years later (giant tortoises have never been celebrated for their swiftness) — park rangers found a nest in George’s corral with 13 eggs. These eggs, unfortunately, were declared infertile. The Galapagos Conservancy reports that scientists are hopeful, but realistic; the chances are slim that this new batch of eggs will produce George’s offspring. But I’ve always been a “glass-half-full” sort of gal and will remain optimistic. Sending good-vibes your way, George!

The Galapagos Islands are celebrated throughout the world for their incredible and rare wildlife. The Islands’ land animals are dominated by reptiles, while most of the world finds mammals the predominate species. There are roughly 15,000 estimated giant tortoises in the Galapagos. Ten sub-species of giant tortoises exist in the wild. Lonesome George is the one remaining survivor of the 11th species. He resides at the Charles Darwin Research Station.

Neil Armstrong Joins Antarctica Voyage

The locals eagerly await Neil Armstrong's arrival

The locals eagerly await Neil Armstrong's arrival


This year marks the 40th anniversary of the first moon landing, and Neil Armstrong’s curiosity and sense of adventure is now taking him to Antarctica. And how fitting for the legendary astronaut to turn his attention to Antarctica; the great white continent has frequently been described as alien and out-of-this-world. Neil will be boarding the National Geographic Explorer on its November 16, 2009 departure. This 23-day voyage includes time on the Antarctic Peninsula, South Georgia, the Falklands and South Orkney Islands. The vessel carries 148 passengers (including Mr. Armstrong, of course). If you want to join Neil there is still space available on this departure. Click here for more information on cabins, itinerary and pricing. From the moon to the frozen continent — Mr. Armstrong is certainly well-traveled. I can image he has a few travel-yarns to tell.

Cusco Witches Market: From Charms to Chicha

Local Peruvian women selling medicinal plants

Local Peruvian women selling medicinal plants


Traveler, M.J. Holliday, shares her experiences at the bustling and sometimes bizarre witches’ market, in Cusco, Peru.

By M.J. Holliday
Five hundred years ago, the Inca empire flourished in South America. At its center was the Sacred Valley of the Incas, and the capital city of Cusco, Peru. The Inca were farmers, scientists, engineers and astronomers. When Fransisco Pizarro arrived with the Spanish armies in the sixteenth century, Inca medicine was so advanced that he sent his doctors home and used local methods instead.

On a trek through the Andes, we stayed in Cusco for two days. The modern name Cusco, or Cuzco, derives from the original Qosqo, meaning “navel.” Historically, Cusco is the birthplace of the Inca. Nomadic shepherds cultivated the land around the Urubamba River and settled the Sacred Valley around AD 1100.

Today the Sacred Valley provides maize, fruit, potatoes and vegetables, and medicinal plants. We found plenty of local produce and wares at the San Pedro market in Cusco, but the most striking attraction was the adjacent witches’ market, or Mercado de las Brujas.

We were fortunate to experience the witches’ market on a weekend. Vendors come from the hills and villages to sell their wares, and trade is lively.

If you’re looking for odd and unusual items, you will find them at the witches’ market. In the shadow of modern amenities, outdoor stalls fill the streets. Clay pots, baskets and makeshift shelves are crammed with herbs, medicines, animal carcasses, dried bats and toads, woven items, handmade charms and amulets, strange foods and potions..

Before going to the market, it’s a good idea to convert some of your money to the local currency. The nuevosol, or sol, is the basic monetary unit of Peru. Three soles equal about one American dollar.

Sixty percent of the population is Catholic, but the spirituality of Peru has strong ties to the earth. Rituals of magic and mysticism pass down by oral tradition, along with a deep understanding of the natural forces that shape the world. In the witches’ market, the vendors are shamans, witch doctors, herbalists and astrologers, all skilled in magical lore.

You can buy a potion or charm for almost anything, from curing a queasy stomach, to attracting money or spicing up your sex life. Dried llama fetuses bring good luck to homes and businesses and are often walled into the corners of buildings. A drink of liquidized frog will improve the memory, and dried armadillo will keep thieves away.

You can even pay a sorcerer to cast a spell on someone. Don’t be tempted to lay a curse on your annoying neighbor, though. Practitioners of ancient magic will use their craft only for good. They warn that magic, used for evil, will turn against the user.

The air is pungent with the aroma of herbs, live and dead animals, and home cooking. Some vendors brew potions on the spot, and others serve up local cuisine. A must-try delicacy is roast guinea pig, or cuy, usually served with a pepper in its mouth. Guinea pig is a traditional dish in South America. In the Cusco Cathedral hangs a painting of the Last Supper, with guinea pig as the main meal. Other local treats include alpaca steak; charqui, a naturally freeze-dried type of jerky; and yellow potato dishes of all kinds.

Fresh-squeezed juice is plentiful, and includes papaya, strawberry, kiwi, mango and cherimoya. Cherimoya is an evergreen, growing in the highlands of Ecuador and Peru. The fruit is oval, grapefruit-sized, with sweet white flesh. Mark Twain called it “the most delicious fruit known to men.” The cherimoya juice was truly refreshing and cost only a sol.

Another local delight is chicha, a brew similar to beer. Chicha can be sweet or strongly fermented, depending on the brewer. It’s made from corn or quinoa, a grain-like plant. If you’re not feeling adventurous, you can just get a coffee and sandwich, for about three soles.

The market is noisy with the shouts of haggling. No one expects to pay the asking price for an item. If you do, the vendor will have a good laugh at your expense. Always offer a much lower price, haggle and barter for every item, and you will walk away with a deal.

Most vendors speak Spanish, or the local Quechuan dialects. It helps to know basic phrases in Spanish. When taking photos, ask permission. Vendors and local farmers usually don’t mind, but it’s bad manners to take a picture without giving at least a sol.

Be prepared for the altitude. The mountain air has less oxygen than that of lower altitudes, so you might feel short of breath. If you develop a taste for chicha, don’t drink too much! High altitudes can cause the worst hangovers imaginable.

The witches’ market is a reminder of the age-old spirituality that pervades even the most modern lifestyle. In the Sacred Valley of the Incas, new technology arrives, but ancient magic and traditions still prevail.

Why The Lost Girls Like Adventure Life

Healthy Breakfast: Volunteer Program in Perus Cachiccata Community

Healthy Breakfast: Volunteer Program in Peru's Cachiccata Community


Bloggers and globe-trekkers, The Lost Girls talk with Adventure Life president, Brian Morgan, on travel’s delicate two-way street between visitors and locals.

“One of traveler’s biggest responsibilities is to understand the local community, and one of the best ways to do this is to volunteer next to the people,” says Brian. “It’s hard to find meaningful experiences that could create a long-term change and also help our travelers understand the local culture.” So Adventure Life spent lots of time researching opportunities and interviewing people from the area, and have come up with some great add-ons for their Peruvian adventures. You can spend a day combating deforestation with a native tree-planting trip. Or fight illness by delivering hygiene kits packed with soap and toothbrushes to poor villages. Or help restore homes battered by the harsh Andes’ elements by working side-by-side on renovations with local families—and spending the night.

“We also offer a healthy breakfast program for students at the Cachiccata school in the Andes. Our travelers visit a market with a local guide to buy food and learn about what’s sold—rather than simply taking pictures. Then they cook and serve breakfast to students who may have walked more than an hour to get to school.”

Adventure Life is now working on volunteer extensions in Ecuador and Costa Rica. “We don’t want to pretend going on a trip will save the world, but these extensions are a unique way to say thanks to the community for the hospitality, leave a positive impact, and to increase your understanding of the place you’re visiting,” says Brian.

The Lost Girls is a group of three curious and intrepid women who decided to leave the daily-grind behind, and travel the world in search of adventure and inspiration. Their blog records their journeys and reflections. You can read more of their interview with Brian, by clicking here.

Product Praise: The GoGirl

GoGirl Motto: Dont Take Life Sitting Down

GoGirl Motto: Don't Take Life Sitting Down


Sorry fellows, but this Product Praise is just for the ladies. There’s no real romantic way to describe this product, so I’ll dive right into it. Put frankly, the GoGirl allows women to stand up while peeing. There have been a few of these types of products floating around for a while — the FUD or female urination device — but I think the GoGirl has finally got it right. Designed for female campers, trekkers, skiers, road-trippers and adventure travelers, this product adds a little grace to the “go.” I would have absolutely loved my own personal GoGirl when I was hiking the Inca Trail — or on a weekend hike in Montana for that matter. I have already put my online order in; my own pink and personal Go-Girl should arrive early next week — cannot wait! The GoGirl is only $6.99 (or a pack of three for $18.99). It comes with a tissue and biodegradable baggie for disposal or storage (GoGirls are reusable). Check out the GoGirl website, it sold me. Truly, a great product for the girl on the go (pun intended).