Antarctica Travel Blog Nov 26: At Last, Cape Evans and the Stunning Mount Erebus

Antarctica at sunset - photo by Laurie Allread

Antarctica at sunset - photo by Laurie Allread


November 26th, 2011

Much to our surprise, the winds increased to 44 knots which again prevented the helicopters from flying to Ross Island for sightseeing. The expedition leader gave up on the weather and decided we should head north, approximately 140 miles northeast to the Ross ice Shelf. Then, as soon as ship started backing up, the wind speed decreased to 30 knots, just enough for us to take a quick flight to visit Cape Evans. We weren’t able to visit either base or hike Observation hill, but visiting Scott’s Discovery Hut at Cape Evans was worth the wait. Seldom, are passenger ships able to get through the ice to see the famous hut.

After dinner the Captain headed the ship north east toward our next destination, the Ross Ice Shelf. The evening sun shining over Mount Erebus was magnificent. The top of Mount Erebus was finally in total view!

(This is Laurie’s fourth visit to Antarctica. She is blogging her way through this epic month-long Antarctica cruise; the Kapitan Khlebnikov’s Ross Sea Centennial Voyage. Tune in for daily updates from the field. Pictures from Laurie’s past Antarctica travels are found on her website.)

Antarctica Travel Blog Nov. 25: Whiteouts and the Solar Eclipse

The Kapitan Klebnikov in Antarctica - photo by Laurie Allread

The Kapitan Klebnikov in Antarctica - photo by Laurie Allread


November 25, 2011

Our plans for visiting McMurdo and Ross Stations, Scott’s Discovery hut at Cape Evans and hiking Observation Hill were delayed by the weather. Here in Antarctica, “weather is our master”, our expedition leader, Shane Envoy, has reminded us many times. Whiteout conditions and 40 knot winds lasted throughout the day with temperature of 30 degrees below zero when considering the wind chill factor. During the afternoon, the whiteout lifted but the winds continued to blow. Nevertheless some of the passengers ventured out to view the partial solar eclipse. The solar eclipse was only visible from Antarctica and Southern New Zealand. What a surprise. This rare event was not even on the itinerary!

(This is Laurie’s fourth visit to Antarctica. She is blogging her way through this epic month-long Antarctica cruise; the Kapitan Khlebnikov’s Ross Sea Centennial Voyage. Tune in for daily updates from the field. Pictures from Laurie’s past Antarctica travels are found on her website.)

Happy Thanksgiving from Antarctica!

November 24, 2011

Our visit to the Adelie Penguin Colony was cut short by white conditions with 40 knots per hour winds. All passengers were on the island which was a ten minute helicopter ride from the icebreaker. After one hour on shore, the wind and snow flurries increased until the icebreaker was no longer visible from shore. By that time, we were spread out over a one mile stretch of beach. We hurried back to the three tents at base camp for warmth until the helicopters were able to return to the island to pick us up for our safe return to the ship. After returning to the ship we all were thankful for our brief but real Antarctica experience!

Antarctica - photo by Laurie Allread

Antarctica - photo by Laurie Allread

(This is Laurie’s fourth visit to Antarctica. She is blogging her way through this epic month-long Antarctica cruise; the Kapitan Khlebnikov’s Ross Sea Centennial Voyage. Tune in for daily updates from the field. Pictures from Laurie’s past Antarctica travels are found on her website.)

Antarctica Travel Blog Nov 23: Visiting the Hut of the Doomed 1912 Expedition of Robert Falcon Scott

Antarctica - Photo by Laurie Allread

Antarctica - Photo by Laurie Allread


NOVEMBER 23, 2011

During the early morning the captain moved the ship south toward Cape Evans on Ross Island. The ship was at its furthest point south on this expedition. Temperature was minus 4 degree C, with wind making it a bit chilly, but the sky was mostly blue. It was a perfect day for our flight to Cape Evans to visit Robert Falcon Scott’s hut until whiteout conditions appeared during the afternoon. The flights were started and stopped numerous times, but eventually all passengers were able to visit the Terra Nova hut on Ross Island.

Robert Falcon Scott’s Discovery expedition stayed in the Terra Nova hut on Ross Island during 1911-1912. From this hut Scott and four members of his expedition team began their journey to the South Pole on November 1, 1911. They reached the South Pole on January 17, 1912 just one month after Roald Amundsen had already claimed the South Pole. None of the members of Scott’s Polar party survived the expedition.

Yet, the hut and its artifacts have been so well maintained by the New Zealand Heritage Trust, it is as if Scott’s expedition team is still living there. At any moment Scott and his men could have walked through the door with snow covered boots. As I entered the stable I imagined explorers Cherry Garrard, Bowers and Wilson talking about their journey to Cape Crozier. To think that I stood in the very spot with likely the same weather conditions where Scott’s team embarked on their incredible journey 100 years ago.

(This is Laurie’s fourth visit to Antarctica. She is blogging her way through this epic month-long Antarctica cruise; the Kapitan Khlebnikov’s Ross Sea Centennial Voyage. Tune in for daily updates from the field. Pictures from Laurie’s past Antarctica travels are found on her website.)

Antarctica Travel Blog Nov 22: Penguins and Preparing for McMurdo Dry Valleys

Emperor Penguin - Photo by Laurie Allread

Emperor Penguin - Photo by Laurie Allread


November 22, 2011

Last evening, we headed toward an area further close to Taylor Valley in the McMurdo Dry Valleys in hope to make a helicopter operation. About 2am the Kapitan Khlebnikov’s engines were shut down as the captain could not get the ship closer to the valley due to the thick ice. The goal was to park as close to Taylor Valley as possible to make the helicopter ride shorter to the valley.

Visibility was poor so the departure time of 8 am was delayed until the skies cleared until about 3 pm. It is quite an operation to get 100 people off the ship for a 60 minute excursion. The McMurdo Dry Valleys are the largest ice-free region in Antarctica. Parts of the Dry Valleys have not seen rain for over 2 million years. It one of the world’s largest desert with a approximate mean annual temperature of -19C. During our excursion we will land to walk around on a designated area and view the mummified seals that are over 1,500 years old.

During our waiting time, we’ve been off the ship walking around on the pack ice and watching penguins jump and in out of the water near the ship. The Emperors walk among us and gaze up at the ship with curiosity. They seem to be quite entertained by our presence.

Anyway my group is scheduled to fly to the Dry Valley about 11 pm tonight so it will be another late night in the midnight sun!

(This is Laurie’s fourth visit to Antarctica. She is blogging her way through this epic month-long Antarctica cruise; the Kapitan Khlebnikov’s Ross Sea Centennial Voyage. Tune in for daily updates from the field. Pictures from Laurie’s past Antarctica travels are found on her website.)

Antarctica Travel Blog Nov. 21: Shackelton Hut from Nimrod Expedition 1907-1909

Photo taken by Laurie Allread Nov. 21, 2011 from McMurdo Sound

Photo taken by Laurie Allread Nov. 21, 2011 from McMurdo Sound


November 21, 2011
Shackleton’s Nimrod Hut, Lat. 77 33 South. Long 166 67 E

Last night, we left Franklin Island about 10 pm and continued our journey south to McMurdo Sound. Mt Erbus came into view during early afternoon. What a lovely sight as we cruised along side Ross Island. The ice was amazingly thin for this time of year which allowed the Captain to park the Kapitan Khlebnikov a few miles from Cape Royds. It is extremely unusual to get into the ice so close to Cape Royds.

Suddenly after securing a position for the ship to begin the helicopter operation to Shackleton’s hut, whiteout condition appeared from nowhere. The operation was delayed but we all made it off the ship to visit the hut within the next few hours. The hut was constructed during Shackleton’s Nimrod Expedition 1907-1909. It was used again during his later expeditions. The 7 x 8.5 m hut housed 14 occupants. It also contains a laboratory and darkroom.

The Antarctic Heritage Trust maintains the hut and its artifacts so that this part of Antarctica history will never be lost. They allow only few people at a time into the hut for 15 minutes. Still, for those for those few minutes, I traveled back into time.

(This is Laurie’s fourth visit to Antarctica. She is blogging her way through this epic month-long Antarctica cruise; the Kapitan Khlebnikov’s Ross Sea Centennial Voyage. Tune in for daily updates from the field. Pictures from Laurie’s past Antarctica travels are found on her website.)

Antarctica Travel Blog Nov. 20: The best way through ice is around ice . . .

Emperor Penguin - photo by Laurie Allread

Emperor Penguin - photo by Laurie Allread


NOVEMBER 20, 2011

Again we were reminded of the old Russian saying “the best way though ice is around ice.” The day was spent weaving in and out of ice through the patches of sea ice. Cape Washington was no longer in reach due to the ice conditions but we did make it to a wonderful emperor penguin rookery on Franklin Island. The lighting was beautiful on the huge tabular iceberg that made the perfect backdrop for any Antarctica postcard with the stars being the Emperor Penguins.

(This is Laurie’s fourth visit to Antarctica. She is blogging her way through this epic month-long Antarctica cruise; the Kapitan Khlebnikov’s Ross Sea Centennial Voyage. Tune in for daily updates from the field. Pictures from Laurie’s past Antarctica travels are found on her website.)

Antarctica Travel Blog Nov 19: 115 Miles from the Antarctic Peninsula

115 miles from the Antarctic Peninsula - photo by Laurie Allread

115 miles from the Antarctic Peninsula - photo by Laurie Allread


November 19th, 2011

We spent the day heading toward Cape Washington or Coulman Island to visit emperor Penguins. The currents and wind changes throughout the day causing the ice to change directions. The sky is overcast and colder than the previous day. We spent the day watching the penguins scurry from the ship as it powered through the ice.

After lunch we took helicopter rides for landscape viewing and to view the ship crushing through the ice. It is not possible appreciate the power of the ice breaker until watching it’s power from the co-pilots’s seat where I was luck enough to sit!

Later, the sun appeared brighter than ever. The lectures were postponed and everyone gathered outside to view the Antarctica Peninsula from 115 miles away!

At 11 pm, sunglasses were still required due to the sun’s intensity. 360 degrees of ice, blue sky and patches of blue sea were all I can see. This is the bottom of the earth, is all I could think. I stopped taking pictures to look, to take it all in and to be in the moment. I hope that the camera in my mind never loses this image as no wide angle lens could possibly capture the vastness and awe of this place.

(This is Laurie’s fourth visit to Antarctica. She is blogging her way through this epic month-long Antarctica trip; the Kapitan Khlebnikov’s Ross Sea Centennial Voyage. Tune in for daily updates from the field. Pictures from Laurie’s past Antarctica travels are found on her website.)

Antarctica Travel Blog Nov 18: Alone in the Ross Sea

NOVEMBER 18TH, 2011 — 7PM

The Kapitan Klebnikov pushes through ice - Photo by Laurie Allread

The Kapitan Klebnikov pushes through ice - Photo by Laurie Allread


Tomorrow will be another day of crushing ice as Coulman Island is still 170 miles away. Due to the large ice floes and sea currents, we have traveled only half as far as yesterday. Now we are heading in a southeasterly direction because that is where the lightest ice is taking us. Ice charts are not always accurate so the captain completed three helicopter recon to view the ice miles ahead in search of the lightest ice so we can head further south. After all we are the only passenger ship in the Ross Sea at this time. We may very well be the only ship, other than a supply ship, in the Ross Sea this early in the year. We are limited to our own resources to find our way south.

In short, our plan tomorrow is to go South!

(This is Laurie’s fourth visit to Antarctica. She is blogging her way through this epic month-long Antarctica trip; the Kapitan Khlebnikov’s Ross Sea Centennial Voyage. Tune in for daily updates from the field. Pictures from Laurie’s past Antarctica travels are found on her website.)

Antarctica Travel Blog Nov 17: Crossing the Antarctic Circle and Readying the Helicopters

The Kapitan Klebnikov breaks through the ice pack...

The Kapitan Klebnikov breaks through the ice pack...


November 17th, 2011 — 9:00 am

Yesterday we entered the pack ice about 8pm. The light was incredible as we photographed the snow petrels and Antarctic Terns fly among the pancake ice. The view from the fly bridge was surreal. Several times I had to stop taking photographs just to admire ice and the sunset. No image, no matter the number of pixels can do this place justice.

We just crossed the Antarctic Circle. Few people ever get this far south and we are heading even further south. The sun is shining with temperature about 30F. We are sailing through open sea surrounded by ice floes and tabular icebergs. We run from port to the starboard side and back again trying to get capture that perfect image of every unique iceberg.

Nov 17 – afternoon
A lot is going on today. The Captain is trying to get us through the ice. The staff moved the zodiacs inside so that the helicopters can be moved out of storage. The Russian crew is now putting together the two helicopters on the deck where they will remain while we are in the ice. The helicopters may be ready for landscape and wildlife viewing tomorrow.

This afternoon we will have a mandatory helicopter operations briefing regarding our conduct around, entering and exiting the helicopters. Viewing the landscape and wildlife by helicopter makes this ship, the Kaptain Klebnikov, so special. This is one of the few ships that carry helicopters. If not for the helicopters it would not be possible to get into the Emperor Penguin rookeries. My dream is to fly to the top and land on the Ross Sea Shelf and to fly over the Dry Valley. Both excursions are on the itinerary, of course, weather permitting.

Today, we are again required to vacuum our outer gear so that we do not carry any pathogens from previously visited islands to Antarctica. The staff also requires attendance to a lecture regarding visitor guidelines by IAATO ( International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators). IAATO is a component of the Antarctica Treaty. Our expeditions leaders always make great effort to ensure our personal safety and to protect the environment.

The rest of the day will be spent looking for wildlife from the bridge and watching the ever changing reflections on the ice while the Kaptain Klebnikov moves further south toward the continent.

(This is Laurie’s fourth visit to Antarctica. She is blogging her way through this epic month-long Antarctica trip; the Kapitan Khlebnikov’s Ross Sea Centennial Voyage. Tune in for daily updates from the field. Pictures from Laurie’s past Antarctica travels are found on her website.)

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.