As of 7PM Ushuaia time, the Kapitan Khlibnikov remains trapped in the ice near Snow Hill – making it 6 days, I believe, of being stuck. In the mean time, I continue to explore Ushuaia. Today and yesterday, I hiked up snowy slopes behind my hotel. The views were fantastic, seeing far out into the Beagle Channel and the surrounding mountains.

Tomorrow, it’s off to Gable island with our local outfitter and Friday is a 30 km mountain bike ride. Saturday’s activity….? I have no idea, as we’re beginning to exhaust options around this coastal city.

We are expecting to board the Khlebnikov on Saturday evening, at best, and quite possibly Sunday.

Beautiful Ushuaia, Argentina -- not a bad place to spend a few extra days

Upon arrival in Ushuaia, I treated myself to a dinner of king crab. Nighttime finally fell at around 10:30pm and a nighttime dinner found me asleep after midnight again. Today we spent the day hiking and paddling in Tierra del Fuego National Park. I drank half a bottle of wine at lunch and the 5 mile hike felt more like 15 – but it was a glorious lunch and I had a beautiful rest on the shores of the beagle channel!

Upon arrival back in Ushuaia, I learned that the Kapitan Khlebnikov has been trapped in the ice for the past 6 days! Thus, our departure will be delayed till Wednesday. I’m taking this chance to explore more of Ushuaia, renting mountain bikes tomorrow for a day of riding. Six days, trapped in the ice! This information keeps rolling around my head. What a Shackleton experience! I’m quite glad that I’m here, enjoying the foods, treks, and biking of Ushuaia.

Polar Icebreaker, Kapitan Khlebnikov by Henny Miltenburg

Mist from volcanic caldera

So, I asked Jonathan Brunger, Adventure Life’s resident Antarctica expert, “what is the most amazing Antarctica trip we offer? I want to do it.” He answered without thinking – the Kapitan Khlebnikov’s Snow Hill trip. The Khlebnikov is the last ice breaker still working in the tourism industry – the few others in the world are too busy exploring the arctic for oil and staking national claims for Russia, Canada, the USA and others. The Khlebnikov’s glory days of taking visitors to Antarctica are numbered too with the recent announcement that 2012 will be its last voyage open to travelers.

Ice-breaker travel is completely different than visiting on an ice-strengthened ship. Someone recently described the difference between an ice-breaker and an ice-strengthened ship as the difference between a MAC truck and a pickup – completely different technology, in addition to the shear size and strength difference! Less than two weeks ago I heard a report that the ship was stuck, yes stuck, in the ice for 3 days! It’s not a Shackleton story, but being aboard one of the world’s strongest ships and being stuck in the ice is about as close as one can get in today’s modern age. More on the Khlebnikov

My expedition to Antarctica is a 20 day voyage, including such landings as South Georgia, South Shetlands, Snow Hill Island, South Orkneys, and the Falklands. I’ll witness many species of penguins, elephant seals, whales, albatrosses, fantastic glaciers and icebergs, and more. But what am I looking forward to most? We’ll be crossing the Drake Passage, known for having the most severe weather on the planet. The ships description of this passage says, “…do not be disappointed if this crossing of the Drake Passage is smooth sailing.” What!? When I read this, I thought, oh, they are speaking directly to me! If we don’t get at least one storm with 60 foot waves, I probably will be disappointed. …although, I imagine that there will be many passengers aboard that will be happy with smooth seas.

I’m also looking forward to the complete disconnect from my very connected and often busy world. With only satellite phone/email, I’ll be limiting my connection to a maximum of one daily outbound email during that 20 days. I’ve told the Adventure Life office to not let the building burn down! Seriously, I’m so grateful to the incredible team at Adventure Life. Each one is super capable and the years of experience and talent they bring to their jobs is what is enabling me to take this trip. Thanks to you guys!

My next correspondence will be from Ushuaia, Argentina in 5 days, just before boarding the Khlebnikov. Please post any questions before then, and I’ll try to respond accordingly. Saludos!

PS Check out Laurie Allread’s journal and photo album from this same trip last year!

Views of the countryside from Caracol ruins in Belize

Ancient maya pottery in Belize's ATM cave

Tikal ruins rising out the jungle

Maya ruins at Xunantunich in Belize

Travel to breathtakingly beautiful Belize must include excursions to the awe-inspiring stone temples and palaces of the ancient Maya civilization. The architecture of this highly advanced civilization remains stunning, adding another spectacular facet to the beauty and culture of Belize. The Maya flourished in Belize from 250 to 900 AD, the Golden Age, during which this ancient civilization attained incredible artistic and architectural heights. The Mayan Kings or holy lords, played an ancient game of out do your neighbor, with rivals building majestic palaces and temples competing in grandeur with the lush green canopy of the Belize rainforest. Not to be out done, each lord filled his castle with intricate ceramic murals, sculptures, pottery and jewelry. Ancient history comes alive with a visit to these magnificent Maya ruins.

Caracol – Mayan true name -Three Hill Water
Situated in the highlands south of San Ignacio and accessible via road, Caracol is known as the supreme Maya city. This metropolis is one of the largest in the Maya world, thought to be the home of 150,000 people. Water was supplied by man-made reservoirs. Rising a spectacular 140 feet the most impressive pyramid, is the Canaa, which is the tallest ancient structure in all of Belize. Extensive excavation beginning in 1985 uncovered a round intricately carved altar stone which tells the story of a battle and ultimate victory over the powerful Tikal.

Lamanai -Ancient Mayan name, Submerged Crocodile
Definitely check out this ruin by a taking a spectacular boat ride up the New River. Approximately 70 structures have been excavated, although 700 have been mapped. The most striking structure is the “Temple of the Jaguar” which has two jaguar masks bordering the stone stairway. This ancient ruin is unique in that successive generations of Mayan people built progressively upon the previous structures rather than destroy and rebuild. The Mask Temple, which sports a thirteen foot stone mask of an ancient holy lord and the High Temple, which offers a stunning view from its peak are truly impressive. Also an added incentive, travel along the New River will encompass a bird sanctuary.

Xunantunich- Mayan translation, Stone Woman
Travel to this Mayan ruin can be an adventure. Beginning in San Ignacio take the Benque Viejo road to the tiny village of San Jose Succotz. Next a hand-cranked ferry will transport vehicles across the Mopan River. Then it’s one mile up hill to this incredible site. El Castillo is the largest pyramid on this site. It rises 130 feet and provides an amazing view of Belize and even Guatemala. Be sure to notice this pyramid’s intricate stucco frieze.

Actun Tunichil Muknal
Looking for even more of an adventure, consider visiting ATM, one of three caves accessible only by licensed guides who conduct single day or mullti-day stays. There is no vehicular access to this site so be prepared for a forty-five minute hike into the jungle. The cave can be found in the Tapir Mountain Nature Reserve and offers a wet welcome as the entrance is flooded with water. This archaeological site reveals skeletons, ceramics and stoneware. “The Crystal Maiden” is the most well known of the human remains. Natural processes of the cave make the bones of this teenage girl sparkle. Several of these types of skeletons can be seen in the main chamber. The trek through the caves will take 4-6 hours, so plan accordingly.

Tikal
Just across the boarder, Guatemala’s Tikal consists of 222 square miles of ancient Mayan ruins amid the lush tropical jungle. Many consider it one of the most impressive cultural reserves in the world. Five temples peek out of the forest canopy. The tallest is the “Temple of the Two Headed Snake.” The Grand Plaza is considered the most striking in all of Tikal. The plaza is surrounded by sculptured altars, stelae, ceremonial buildings, residential palaces and even a ball court. Tikal requires at least two full days to thoroughly explore; it is a jaw-dropping site.

Polar Icebreaker, Kapitan Khlebnikov by Henny Miltenburg

Accommodating only 112-passengers on only a handful of remaining expeditions, now is the time to bid a found farewell to this legendary ship. Adventure Life’s company president and founder, Brian Morgan, will be bidding his own personal adieu to the Kapitan; he is set to join the November 15, 2009, 22-day Emperors and Kings departure. This ultimate penguin expedition explores the habitats of eight different species of penguin.

Kuna woman with molas - compliments of Sapibenga lodge

The following article was written by Panama traveler M. Leonard. Thanks for the contribution!

In the Caribbean Sea, a few miles off the east coast of mainland Panama, lies the San Blas Archipelago, a series of exquisite tropical islands. The Archipelago consists of 360 low-lying islands, including sixty that are homeland to the indigenous and traditional, Kuna people.

The Kuna (also Cuna) Indians of Panama are a fascinating tribal society. In spite of historical pressure to become part of Panama and westernize their culture, they have managed to avoid the stress, bustle and complexities of their neighbors and remained content living much the same way their ancestors did.

Thought to be descendants of the Carib Indians, they lived initially throughout Panama and Columbia. When Panama broke away from Columbia, the Kuna resisted. The Panamanian government and police attempted to control the insurrection, often with violence. Eventually the Kuna staged a revolt and declared their independence and migrated to the coast and to the islands of the San Blas Archipelago. Officially, the islands are part of Panama, but are administered as a “country within a country,” and lead by the Kuna themselves. Thus, the islands lying within San Blas province are rich in tradition, following their own customs, laws, and legislation enabling them to preserve their natural environment and heritage.

Each island has its own chief, called a Sahila, who is elected for life. There are positions of elders who assist the chief in governing matters. At the same time the Kuna Yala area and its inhabitants have two representatives in the Panamanian legislature and they vote in general elections. Wary of the pressure to Westernize, the Kuna have restricted visitors to the area until recently. Some communities have introduced eco-tourism to their islands, and by limiting and regulating have been successful in maintaining a balance between western influences and their traditional culture.

They have their own language called Tule, which is also what the Kunas call themselves. Spanish is a secondary language for many. Their customs and traditions have been passed to the children in song and dance. Until recently the Tule language was unwritten.

The Kuna are a matriarchal society. They marry young, usually in mid-teens. The groom moves into the home of his wife’s parents. He may spend several years as an apprentice to his father-in-law. Divorce is rare.

As an agricultural society, they live simply and interact closely with nature. They emphasize respect for the land and believe one should maintain a deep, intimate relationship with it. To them, “All things come from Mother Earth. Nothing exists that is more necessary than she is.” The men build and maintain the homes which are simple, thatch-roofed huts. Few on the more remote islands have electricity or running water. The primary crops are plantain, bananas, avocados, corn, rice and harvested coconuts. They add to their diet by catching fish. Men will also weave baskets, carve utensils and sew their own clothing. The women are responsible for bringing water from the mainland rivers, washing and cleaning. They sew the clothes for the females.

It is the women’s clothes and dress that is the primary attraction for the restricted eco-tourism allowed on the islands. The ladies wear spectacularly colorful clothes, especially their blouses call molas. Mola is actually the name for the elaborate, colorful panels, which make up the garments. These panels are intricate embroidered pictures done in an applique manner. In addition to the beautiful molas, the women also wear gold nose rings, paint their faces with rouge made from achiote seeds and paint a line down their nose. They complete their dress with bright colored beaded bands on their arms and legs and lovely head scarves. It is thought that the bright colors repel evil spirits. In comparison to the women the men dress plainly in understated shirts, jeans or shorts.

The chief religion is animism. They believe the Creator God is far away and that evil spirits called poni cause disease and illness. In addition to bright clothing, they carry small dolls carved from balsa wood, called nuchus, to protect them from the poni.

The breathtaking scenery and unique indigenous culture encompassing the San Blas Archipelago make it a truly unique place. The Kuna have stood up for their beliefs, enabling them to live the life that they believe is best for them. The Kuna and their islands are undoubtedly vibrant, colorful, culturally rich and unforgettably hospitable.

Win a Patagonia Wildlife Safari trip: EcoCamp's Suite Domes

Win a Galapagos trip onboard the Eric, Letty, Flamingo

WHAT YOU WILL WIN!

Best Trip Journal: Win a trip for two to EcoCamp’s luxury suite domes in remote Torres del Paine National Park, combined with an expedition cruise on board the Mare Australis for a complete Patagonia adventure! Click here for details.

Trip Video Drawing: Win a 10-day Galapagos adventure for two on board the Eric, Letty, Flamingo! Click here for details.

Send us your best travel videos, and start creating your Online Trip Journal today — click here to get started.

THAT’S TWO CHANCES TO WIN!

Past Winners
Take inspiration from some of the past winners. click here.

Or read some of the trip journals already online.

You may even recognize a few names and faces from the Adventure Life staff… Just like you, we’re travelers who love to share our experiences with others — no matter how embarrassing the photos.

Leatherback nest found! The Lovato family assists scientists on their turtle patrols at the Pacurare Reserve

While at the Pacuare Reserve, travelers are invited to assist the biologists in their turtle patrols. The patrols vary by season. During nesting season, it is your job to walk the beach looking for a leatherbacks laying eggs. When you find one, you’ll wait with the researcher until the turtle is done laying eggs. Then, you’ll have the chance to approach the turtle and assist in measuring and tagging it before the giant leatherback returns to the sea. Turtle egg poachers are a major threat to the survival of leatherbacks, so your next job is to carefully dig up the eggs and rebury them in another location so poachers cannot find the nest.

The Lovato family shares a little of their time at the Pacuare Reserve, and their turtle patrols when they worked hands-on with researchers as they continue to protect, monitor and study the intriguing turtles that return to this region each year to lay their eggs.

About an hour after we got there, we were asked to accompany two volunteers on an excavation. This is where they dig up a nest that has already hatched and count the eggs in categories (hatched, and not hatched but: fertilized, not fertilized, and some more fine categories). The digging is done by hand, scooping out sand, the eggs and anything else you find down there: crabs, maggots, and turtles that haven’t yet made it out of the nest. Some of them are no longer alive, but this day we found six live healthy babies! They are set on the sand to perk up and make their way out to sea. The kids were beside themselves with excitement as each little one crawled across the beach. One with a bent shell they nicknamed Peanut. Another baby had a slightly bent flipper. Hope the little guy or girl made it once they started swimming! I was up to my armpits in sand digging, and the kids helped with the digging, and counting once all the babies made it to the ocean. What a way to start our visit!

Click here to read more.

If you had a chance to pick-up the May 2009 issue of National Geographic, there is a great article — “Ancient Mariner” — that addresses the history and future of the leatherback turtles (which can easy reach 2,000 pounds, mind you!) that have endured on the planet for 100 million years. Issues, such as climate, population, pollution and predators, plague these endangered marine giants. But, as Tim Appenzeller in the National Geographic reports, because of their adaptable and resilient nature, some regions have actually seen their leatherback populations increase. A great read, with great pictures.

Blue footed boobies - photo by Wayne Ng

Giant tortoise - by Wayne Ng

Winner of our best journal contest wins voyage to Antarctica on the Antarctic Dream

Adelies entering the water at Gourdin Island - photo by Les Moore

Blue ice at Cuverville Island - by Les Moore

Prize for journal drawing: Alaska cruise with our partners Cruise West

Winner of our Best Journal contest is Wayne Ng for his entry, Epiphanies in Ecuador and the Galapagos. Wayne writes:

…During lunch on the ship, several of the crew race into the dining area: ballenos, they exclaim–humpbacks a mile off the stern. When the crew still reacts with awe to wildlife, it tells you how special this place is. Who says you have to be young to be a kid? Who says age tempers the adrenal glands? Everyone on board lines the stern side, grinning as if they just learned Santa Claus was real.

We motor to Punta Suarez and hit the booby trail. The sea lions now have to share the stage with hundreds of marine iguanas basking in the sun on rocks, blue footed boobies wobbling about their nests, giant albatross’ putting on an air show when not courting their lifelong partner to be – all within inches of us. It is a rich and diverse island whose scenery alone would merit visitation. We wonder if the trip had already climaxed, as we can’t imagine a better day. My sister-in-law, Chantel, snorkels for the first time and though we see no sea lions in the water, she spies a manta ray and is totally hooked…

Take a look at his entire adventure by clicking here.

Wayne receives an Antarctica adventure on board the Expedition Ship, Antarctic Dream. This 78 person capacity expedition cruise ship is celebrated for its longtime service in the Chilean Navy. Refurbished in 2005, the ship now takes travelers to remote South Shetland Islands and the Antarctic Peninsula — incredible regions that have beckoned the world’s explorers for centuries.

Winners of our journal drawing are Les Moore and Sabine Westland. Les and Sabine’s Antarctica journal, Antarctic Cruise aboard MS Andrea was randomly selected from the completed collection of our online journals.

…As we woke, the ship arrived at Deception Island, where we landed at Whalers Bay. This is the site of an old Norwegian/Chilean whaling station that ceased operation in 1931. The British destroyed the station’s fuel tanks and equipment during WWII to prevent German ships from using it as a base. After the war it functioned as a British research station until a volcanic eruption in 1967 led to it being abandoned.

Some volcanic activity continues – with steam rising off warm water, and some passengers actually swam at Pendulum Cove.

We then left Deception Island and set off across the Bransfield Strait for Trinity Island. On the way a pair of humpback whales accompanied us, swimming beside the ship for 10 or 15 minutes, before surging ahead of us…

To read their entire journal, click here.

Les and Sabine have won an Alaska cruise for two with our partners Cruise West. Cruise West’s vessels range is size from 78 to 138 passengers. They have an experienced crew and flexible schedules to offer the best chances of spotting rare Alaskan Wildlife. The size and skill of the vessels can take travelers in arm’s-length reach of an icy glacier, or into the mist of a waterfall at Prince William Sound.

We would like to congratulate everyone on their wonderful journals, and extend a great big thank you for sharing your travels!

About the Journals
To help inspire your next great trip, I invite you to take a look at our Travel Journal Collection, and post your own adventures. In addition to great travel yarns, and fantastic pictures, by utilizing the services of Google-Maps you can literally pin-point your trip, and give friends and family a clear image of exactly where and when you hiked the Inca Trail, or explored the shores of Antarctica, or rafted Chile’s exhilarating Futaleufu!

We’re are working on a contest for the upcoming season, so keep your photos, videos and journals handy. I’ll keep you posted.

About the Contest
Last year, we launched a new Online Travel Journal feature on our website that invites travelers to share their travel stories, photographs, map itineraries and more!

The first 100 Adventure Life travelers to post a trip journal were entered into a drawing for an Alaskan Expedition Cruise for two with our partners Cruise West.

And there was contest for the Best trip journal – judged by a handful of Adventure Life staff. The prize is an Antarctica adventure on board the Expedition Ship, Antarctic Dream.

Deadline for this contest was July 31, 2009.