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Antarctica Travel Blog Dec 3 and Dec 4: Wildlife of Macquarie Island

Laurie Allread — Sun, 04 Dec 2011 20:57:24 +0000

Weddell Seal, Antarctica - photo by Laurie Allread

December 3, 2011

We arrived at Macquarie Island about 7am. The sea was calm and the weather was foggy with light mist. We were met by park rangers from the ANARE station for a walk around the Isthmus. The Isthmus was teaming with wildlife including huge male elephant seals, king penguins and rock hoppers. We spent about 2.5 hours on the Isthmus and then took a quick zodiac ride to view Shags before returning to the Ship for a quick lunch. After lunch, we visited Sandy beach, where Royal Penguin colonies sprawled across the landscape. This part of the island is known for the 100,000 pairs of Royal penguins who breed only on Macquarie Island.

December 4, 2011

We arrived at Lusitania Bay at 7am to view the King Penguins colony which was clearly visible from the bow of the ship. We watched the King Penguins and the view of Macquarie Island fade as we headed north toward Hobart, Tasmania, Australia.

(This is Laurie’s fourth visit to Antarctica. She is blogging her way through this epic month-long Antarctica cruise; the Kapitan Khlebnikov’s Ross Sea Centennial Voyage. This is Laurie’s final post from the field. Pictures from Laurie’s past Antarctica travels are found on her website.)

Antarctica Travel Blog Nov. 20: The best way through ice is around ice . . .

Laurie Allread — Sun, 20 Nov 2011 21:19:05 +0000

Emperor Penguin - photo by Laurie Allread

NOVEMBER 20, 2011

Again we were reminded of the old Russian saying “the best way though ice is around ice.” The day was spent weaving in and out of ice through the patches of sea ice. Cape Washington was no longer in reach due to the ice conditions but we did make it to a wonderful emperor penguin rookery on Franklin Island. The lighting was beautiful on the huge tabular iceberg that made the perfect backdrop for any Antarctica postcard with the stars being the Emperor Penguins.

(This is Laurie’s fourth visit to Antarctica. She is blogging her way through this epic month-long Antarctica cruise; the Kapitan Khlebnikov’s Ross Sea Centennial Voyage. Tune in for daily updates from the field. Pictures from Laurie’s past Antarctica travels are found on her website.)

Antarctica Travel Blog Nov 14: Courtship of Southern Royal Albatrosses on Campbell Island

Laurie Allread — Mon, 14 Nov 2011 16:22:56 +0000

Photo by Laurie Allread - Taken enroute to Snow Hill on her 2008 Antarctica

Monday – Nov. 14, 2011

This morning we arrived at Perseverance Harbor, Campbell Island about 8am. Wind was 30 knots and temperature about 40 F degrees. The 100 passengers were divided into several groups by ability: ie. fast to slow walkers. The goal was to complete the 2.5 mile walk with 811 feet elevation gain to the top of the island to view the south side of the island. We hoped to see Southern Royal Albatrosses. Much to our surprise, we watched several pairs doing their courtship rituals including mutual preening.. We were careful to not interrupt the birds which was somewhat difficult as the big birds nested right beside the one foot wide boardwalk.

After lunch, we headed south out of the Perseverance Harbor. Next stop is Antarctica. The expedition leader, Mike Messick, announced that that now would be a good time to take a shower as the next two days are expected to be rough. The rolling is already 15 to 30 degrees at times. The Captain just closed the bridge as the rolling is exaggerated on the higher decks.

Everyone seems to be in the lounge on the 5th floor or in their rooms. Finally, we are now in the Southern Ocean where the waves are expected to be very high until we arrive are the ice.

(This is Laurie’s fourth visit to Antarctica. She is blogging her way through this epic month-long Antarctica trip; the Kapitan Khlebnikov’s Ross Sea Centennial Voyage. Tune in for daily updates from the field. Pictures from Laurie’s past Antarctica travels are found on her website.)

Antarctica Travel Blog Nov 11: Preventing Pathogens, Welcome Cocktails and Meeting the Captain

Laurie Allread — Fri, 11 Nov 2011 16:01:05 +0000

Laurie Allread prepares for her fourth voyage to Antarctica. This picture was taken on her trip to Snow Hill in 2008

Friday – Nov. 11, 2011

This afternoon we conducted bio security which entailed of vacuuming out our personal backpacks and outer gear to prevent pathogens from being introduced into the delicate environment of the Subantarctic Islands. Also, attendance of the zodiac briefing was required to ensure everyone’s personal safety.

Pete McClelland from the New Zealand Department of Conservation gave a lecture about the unique plant life and wildlife on the Subantarctic Islands. The New Zealand government requires a permit to land on all these Islands. Additionally there are many rules regarding the times permitted to enter and the number of people to enter at once. Pete said that the islands are for the birds, thus we are merely visitors. Our visit to Snares Island tomorrow is the first of our many explorations of this region. The stars of these islands are the Yellow Eyed Penguin and Erect Crested penguin that are endemic to these islands. Many travelers are to see those birds to complete their list of the 17 penguin species. Everyone was excited to meet the Captain and his officers at the Welcome Cocktail party. The Captain, Viktror Vasil Yev, has operated the Kapitan Khlebnikov for many years. I’m confident he will get us to the Ross Ice Shelf with a safe return to Australia on December 7th. Sposibo, Captain Vasil yev! For being our Captain! New Russian word of the day “Sposibo” — Thank you.

Galapagos Travel: Rules for Galapagos Visitors, a Good Time for a Good Reminder

Beth Conway — Mon, 12 Sep 2011 20:35:58 +0000

Two corrals closed. The giant tortoises can be observed from the viewing platforms. Photo courtesy of Galapagos Conservancy

Last month, the Galapagos National Park Service announced they are closing visitor access to two of the tortoise corrals at Santa Cruz’s Fausto Llerena Tortoise center — due to some irresponsible behaviors by, reportedly, both some select travelers and naturalist guides. Behaviors reported include littering and violating the park’s rules against touching and coming within two meters of the animals. It was also reported that visitors were observed walking on the tortoises’ feeding platforms. At this time the park has not decided whether the closure will be permanent or temporary. Visitors to the center will continue to have plenty of opportunities to view the tortoises from observation platforms. The Galapagos Conservancy offers additional information on the closing of the tortoise corrals.

The closure — rather the reasons behind this closure — is of course disheartening. The Giant Tortoise Breeding and Rearing Center has been operating for over 40 years. It is not only and important place for tortoise research and rearing (it currently holds 925 juvenile tortoises and 70 adult tortoises), it is also an educating tool to thousands of visitors who come to learn about the islands’ intriguing flora and fauna. The closure, however, does inspire me to get the word out and remind visitors that there are simple rules to being a responsible traveler on a Galapagos tour. A little refresher can do us all a bit of good.

The Galapagos National Park created the following rules for all visitors to the Galapagos:

1. To visit the National park you must always be accompanied by a certified Galapagos National Park guide.
2. Galapagos is unique and fragile environment. Take only photographs and video. Professional shooting needs authorization from the National Park.
3. Please stay within the limits of the walking trails for your safety and that of the flora and fauna.
4. To avoid affecting the wildlife’s natural behavior please avoid getting closer than two meters (6.5 feet) to the animals.
5. Camping is only allowed in specific sites. If you wish to camp, you must first obtain a permit from the Galapagos National Park.
6. Help conservation by cooperating with the authorities in their inspection, monitoring and control duties. Report any anomalies to the National Park.
7. Do not introduce foreign organisms to the islands, as these can have a negative impact on the ecosystem.
8. Please do not buy souvenirs which are made from black coral, sea shells, sea lion teeth, tortoise shell, volcanic rock or endemic woods.
9. Galapagos animals have their own feeding behaviors. Never feed the animals. Feeding them can be detrimental to their health.
10. Galapagos landscapes are beautiful and unique. Do not spoil them by writing or etching rocks or trees.
11. Do not litter while on the islands. Always dispose of rubbish in a safe and appropriate way.
12. Smoking or making camp fires in the national park areas is forbidden and can cause devastating fires.
13. Fishing is strictly forbidden, except on those boats specifically authorized by the Galapagos National Park for that purpose only.
14. Jet skiing, submarines, water skiing, and aerial tourism are all forbidden.

For more information on responsible Galapagos travel, this video from our friends at the International Galapagos Tour Operators Association (IGTOA) makes a nice visual.

Show your conservation attitude … and travel well.

Galapagos Travel: Illegal Fishing Vessel Caught in the Galapagos

Beth Conway — Fri, 22 Jul 2011 21:24:04 +0000

357 dead sharks found on board illegal fishing vessel - photo courtesy of the Galapagos National Park

Earlier this week the Galapagos National Park and the Ecuadorian Navy seized a boat that was illegally fishing in Galapagos Islands marine reserve — the boat was longline fishing in the protected waters for sharks and swordfish. Sadly, 357 dead sharks were found on board the boat. The species found were: 286 bigeye thresher, 22 blue sharks, 40 Galapagos sharks, 6 hammerhead sharks, 2 tiger sharks, and 1 mako shark. The AP reports that the boat was seized Tuesday southeast of Genovesa island inside the marine reserve. The 30 fisherman on board are now facing criminal charges.

For me, this news carries with it a mixture of emotions — frustrating, disheartening and at the same time encouraging that the Galapagos National Park (GNP) and Ecuadorian government seem to be effectively working together to enforce the law. Reports from the GNP state that this is the largest shark seizure in history.

Sharks are hunted around the world for their fins – a delicacy in parts of the world. Shark finning is a graphic process where the fins are cut off the large fish while still alive. The shark is then thrown overboard, back into the ocean where it slowly bleeds to death. Interestingly enough, the sharks found in this case had not been finned, rather where whole fish. Half of the 29 species of sharks that call the Galapagos Marine Reserve home are considered threatened.

When deciding to take a Galapagos trip, there are important choices you can make to support the Galapagos National Park and conservation efforts in islands. Click here to learn more about traveler involvement in Galapagos conservation efforts and the significance of protecting the islands.

Costa Rica Travel Video: My 12 year old and I take on the Morpho Falls

Beth Conway — Thu, 12 May 2011 20:42:52 +0000

Earlier this year, I had the rare opportunity to travel with my 12-year-old daughter, Gabs, to Costa Rica. Exclusively a mother-daughter trip, all other siblings, husbands, grandparents, friends and what-have-yous were strictly instructed they were NOT invited; this was a trip just for Gabs and I. We didn’t waste a moment of our 8-days away, traveling through this beautiful country on a Beaches and Rainforest trip. We ascended to the treetops and rode horses in the remote rainforest. Snorkeled with sand sharks in Cahuita National Park. We rafted the wild waters of the Pacuare River. We hunted for wildlife, spotting sloths, snakes, lizards, turtles, caimans, bats, tarantulas, countless birds (including Gabs’ favorite, the toucan), capuchin & howler monkeys — we even got cozy with a few howlers at an animal sanctuary just outside of Puerto Viejo. And of course, we took on the spectacular Morpho Falls in Costa Rica’s Selva Bananito Reserve. Named after the butterfly frequently found in this region, it is nearly impossible to capture how much fun it was to climb and rappel these falls, and just how stunning it is in this isolated area of the rainforest. But the video above makes the attempt.

Amazon Travel Video: Parrots at Yasuni Clay Lick

Beth Conway — Wed, 06 Apr 2011 16:15:24 +0000

Adventure Life traveler, Julia, returns home from a trip to the Ecuadorian Amazon with this clip from the Yasuni Clay Lick. Located along with Napo River, this is one of the most accessible licks in the Amazon. Hundreds of parrots visit this lick each day. This is a very popular stop for guests of Sacha Lodge — just short canoe trip from the lodge down the Napo River. The park service has set up blinds in order to watch the parrots. Parrots use the clay to help with digestion of different toxins found in the nuts/fruits they eat. In other words, these birds of discovered nature’s solution to tummy troubles!

Want to go?

Antarctica Travel Video: Leave the Pebbles for the Penguins

Beth Conway — Wed, 09 Mar 2011 20:12:41 +0000

A little reminder in the principles of Leave No Trace is always a good idea. This short video from my last Antarctica trip provides just that. Although a tiny pebble might seem insignificant, they are incredibly coveted by Antarctica penguins — penguins make their nests from small pebbles, that are not always easy to come by in the snowy, stark environment. Seen here in a short clip are Gentoos (and I believe a chinstrap sneaks into the clip) doing a little nest building and ongoing maintenance. Penguin pebble thieves are everywhere… watching the constant back and forth, tug-of-war methods of penguins as the steal each others’ pebbles gets comical, especially because the polar-thieves obviously have no shame! As travelers, we must remember how significant the most seemingly insignificant items might be. So remember, take pictures and leave the pebbles for the penguins.

And as always, travel well!

Minke Whale, Meet Antarctica Travelers

Beth Conway — Tue, 30 Nov 2010 22:25:56 +0000

Hey — remember that time we were in Antarctica and that minke whale decided to swim over to our zodiac, give it a little nudge and dive underneath before meandering on its way…? Antarctica travelers have a close encounter with a curious Minke whale off the coast of the Peninsula.

Unlike the other wildlife of Antarctica, whales do not breed in the region. However, they do take advantage of the nutrient-filled waters in the austral summer, traveling great distances from their temperate breeding waters in the north. Whales are divided into two main groups: toothed and baleen. The only toothed whales found in the Antarctic are the Orca and the Sperm whale, while a variety of baleen whales have been sighted: Blue, Fin, Sei, Humpback, Minke, and Southern Right. Late summer, February and March, is when whales are typically most abundant in Antarctica.