A hungry and happy group of trekkers after conquering the Inca Trail's Dead Woman's Pass

A hardy hike deserves nothing less than some hardy food — and on our Inca Trail treks you’ll get it; sometimes with little extras that leave a big impression.

For example, last time I was traveling in Peru my husband was celebrating a birthday during our trek. Surprise — a cake and candles were presented at his birthday dinner. Another personal touch the cook added en route was freshly picked avocado that was growing wild in the region. And each morning, our wake up call included hot coffee or tea served at our tents. A bit of a peace-offering for the early-morning rise — but it worked.

Enjoying a bit birthday cake on an Inca Trail trek

In other words, prepare to be spoiled.

This is just a sample menu, but gives you a good idea of what type of food and the variety to expect on your Inca Trail trek. Vegetarians out there (yours-truly included) don’t worry – you are easily accommodated and I promise you won’t have to make due with mere beans, bread and butter substitutes (that drives me crazy).

Inca Trail Menu

Day 1
-Snack: Chocolate bar, dried fruit, chocolate cookie, candies, banana
-Lunch options: Chicken pickled, bread, yucca, sweet potato OR Roast Chicken with salad OR Swiss chard pie with salad
-Tea time: three kinds of corn (grey, chullpi, white), cheese, coffee, tea, cookies, peanut butter and jam
-Dinner: Vegetable soup, Trout Meuniere, mashed potatoes, salad with vanilla flan or apple strudel

Day 2
-Breakfast: Oat with Kiwicha (a super grain like quinoa –think super oatmeal), scrambled eggs and bacon, toast, coffee, tea, cookies jam and butter
-Snack: chocolate bar, chocolate cookie, candies, tangerine and apple
-Lunch: Corn cream, chicken salad, avocado, olives, breadcheese and chicha morada juice
-Tea time: Tequenos rellenos (fried cheese sticks – they are delicious), guacamole, coffee, tea, cookie, peanut butter and jam
-Dinner: Tomato soup with grated cheese, Lomo saltado (soymeat, potato and rice), with strawberry jelly and peaches

Day 3
-Breakfast: pancake with honey, yogurt, granola, milo, coffee, bread, jam and butter
-Snack: orange, cookie, chocolate bar and candies
-Lunch: Macaroni salad with avacado, eggs, cheese, olives and basil with peach juice
-Tea time: pop corn, cookies, coffee, tea, bread, peanut butter, butter and jam
-Dinner: Inca soup (with quinoa), milanesa de eggplant con rice (eggplant and rice) and flan for dessert

Day 4
-Breakfast: Omelet with cheese, coffee, milo, bread, jam and butter
-Snack: red apple, peach juice, chocolate bar, granola bar and candies
-Lunch: Cream asparagus soup, causa rellena (a potato dish with or without tuna), salad and pineapple juice

You’ll arrive at Machu Picchu with a full belly!

Want to go?

Happy trekker at the top of Huayna Picchu Peak

Hiking the ruins of Machu Picchu itself can be enough for some travelers. But there are some amazing peaks to trek while at the ruins — and offer a rare perspective to the legendary Inca ruins. The catch? There’s a fee, and you’ll want to do a little planning in advance to save your spot. Here are some helpful details.

Huayna Picchu
Huayna Picchu or Wayna Picchu (Young Peak) is that iconic peak you see behind Machu Picchu in all of the postcards. Hikers start in the morning at Sacred Rock and pass through a gate that is open 7:00AM to 1:00PM. The hike is a 1-2 hour steep hike on a well-established trail, but the last 65 feet (20 meters) is a steep rock slab that is climbed with a ladder and a rope. Take care when the weather is wet, as it can be slippery. The summit provides a great view of the ruins as they spread out below you. Only 400 people are permitted on this hike per day, so if Huayna Picchu is on your to-do list, I highly recommend purchasing the $10 per person admission with us ahead of time.

Views from Machu Picchu Mountain

Machu Picchu Mountain
Another hiking alternative is Machu Picchu Mountain (Old Peak), which is the higher peak towering above the ruins opposite Huayna Picchu. This is a lesser known, 2-3 hour hike up, sometimes steep, stone steps through the forested mountainside. The summit provides a truly bird’s eye view of the ruins and breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains. The last start time is 2:00PM. This hike is $5 per person; we can also help travelers purchase these ahead of time, but there is no limit.

The hike up to the Sun Gate is free and provides a priceless view of the ruins.

It should be noted that Machu Picchu itself has daily restrictions on the number of visitors allowed into the site. The number is capped at 2500 visitors a day. Daily passes into the ruins are $55. It is also recommended to purchase these tickets in advance, especially if you are planning your Peru trip during busy season or during an important festival, such as Inti Raymi. During this past July’s 100th Anniversary celebrations, the site met capacity a number of days.

Patagonia Hike in Torres del Paine -- Hello Gorgeous!

Via Chile
From Chile, the most direct route to Torres del Paine is via a flight into Punta Arenas from Santiago; this is about a 4 1/2 hour flight with a stopover in Puerto Montt. Punta Arenas is a good place to spend the night – an active port town. From here, you make the 140 mile (226 km) drive to Puerto Natales (paved road). Once in Puerto Natales, it’s another 71 miles (115 km) to the park. Recently, about half of this 71-mile-drive was paved (Route 9 from Puerto Natales to Cerro Castillo near the border). Although, this hasn’t really affected the transfer time to the park’s entrance – maybe shaving about 10 to 20 minutes off the drive.

Via Argentina
If you’re coming from Argentina, your best bet is from El Calafate – about 240 miles + a border crossing. The border crossing can be seamless and quick, or it can cause 2-3 hour delays. Experiences vary. Like the Chile drive, this route is also a combination of paved and unpaved roads. Sometimes flights are more affordable between Buenos Aires and El Calafate (about a three hour flight), than Santiago and Punta Arenas – so definitely keep a look out. And while you’re in Argentina, throw in a little Ushuaia, Buenos Aires and Iguazu… now we’re talking. And now I’m off track.

Both routes are good options, with similar distances and transfer time (as long as lady-luck is on your side at the border crossing). Most importantly, both reward you with the landscape of Patagonia’s Torres del Paine. I’d walk – nay crawl – either of these routes for those incredible spires!

Want to go?

Great alternative to Classic Inca Trail - the Cachiccata Trek

Salcantay
If you want to stay within the same region as the Classic Inca Trail, consider the Salcantay trek. National Geographic Adventure did a feature on the Salcantay a few years ago called “Trekking to Macchu Picchu (The Cool Way)” — and frankly, it’s pretty cool. But the reason it’s not as popular as the Classic Inca Trail is the Salcantay does not hike directly into Machu Picchu. This is a big deal for some folks — and rightfully so; when you hike those steps up to the sun gate to over look Machu Picchu after 4 days of trekking through the Andes… it’s truly special.

There are actually options that combine the two; after about 4 days on the Salcantay, you can join up with the classic Inca Trail near the community of Huayabamba and finish the remainder of the trail into Machu Picchu. Equates to about 7 days of Andes trekking.

Keep in mind, the Inca built a road system stretching along the coast from Ecuador and into Chile and Argentina – an estimated 25,000 kilometers of roads. To put is simply there is lots and lots and lots of “Inca Trail” throughout the region.

Is one trek better than the other? Well — the Salcantay is more secluded, and less developed than the classic trail, but the environment/scenery is very similar since both treks are in the same region.

Highest elevation you’ll reach in Salcantay is 15,252 feet — Inca Trail 13,776 ft.
7D/6N trek: Total Distance: ~ 45 miles
Highest Altitude: 15,252 ft.

Cachiccata Trek
I also highly recommend the Cachiccata Trek. This cultural 4 day/3 night trek includes a visit to the Inca temples of Chokekillka and Intiwatana. It also visits local Peruvian communities. It’s an easier, shorter option with hiking at lower altitudes. Rather than hike into Machu Picchu, you’ll take the train at the end of this trek into the ruins. This is a more secluded and less-traversed trail – I’d be surprised if you ran into another traveler outside of your group.
Total Distance: 12. 5 miles
Highest Altitude: 12,500 ft.

Views from the Cordillera Blanca Trek

Cordillera Blanca
One of Peru’s most sought after treks is the Cordillera Blanca. Compacted into a fairly small area, this region has more than 50 peaks 18,700 ft or higher, including Huascaran, Peru’s premier mountain.
Total Distance 38.0 miles
Highest Altitude: 15,620 ft.

Views from the Ausangate Trek in Peru

Trekking in Argentina's Fitz Roy Range

Sunset at EcoCamp in Torres del Paine

Missoula, in Montana’s Rockies — where I rest my head at the end of the day — is at about 3200 ft above sea level. When I hiked the Inca Trail, two of my travel companions came from the Florida coast; you just don’t get any closer to sea level than that. While we were definitely mindful of the high elevation, and certainly huffed and puffed our way along the trail and through its 9,000-14,000 foot passes, altitude sickness was not a problem for any of the trekkers in our group. But this is not always the case. Don’t worry, if the altitude makes you wary, there are great options out there.

If you’re looking for fantastic Andes trekking, but in a lower elevation, look towards Patagonia. The circuits are remote and captivating, and the landscape is legendary. Both the popular Fitz Roy Range in Argentina and the “W” Circuit in Torres del Paine are excellent options for low elevation, multi-day treks.

For the Fitz Roy Trek, the highest elevation on the most popular route is near De los Tres Lagoon – at about 1200m (3900 ft). This 4-day Patagonia tour through glaciated landscape averages 7 to 9 hours of hiking a day, cover anywhere between 11 to 15 miles each day. This hike also includes a trek across the Torre Glacier.

On the W circuit in Chile’s Torres del Paine, your highest elevation will be in French Valley at 1100m (3608ft). If you like, this portion of the trek can be replaced with another trail for a less taxing hike. The W circuit for the most part avoids the difficult and taxing routes except for the last section to the Torres. The W circuit is one of the most accommodation, fitting the needs of hikers who want to trek all day, or those looking for a more relaxed pace.

A few more notes on high elevation trekking:
The good news is that the majority of those who experience altitude sickness find it relatively mild and limiting — NOT debilitating. And symptoms usually decline as altitude acclimatization occurs. All in all, don’t be afraid, be smart. Coming prepared, and recognizing the signs are the best ways to combat altitude sickness. Here are some tips on avoiding altitude sickness.

My mom, and her three girls (and one grand-baby-to-be) on a canoe trip in Minnesota

Marissa and her mom getting ready to enter the ATM cave in Belize

Julia's mother-daugther Galapagos trip -- see Mom, they're all smiles!

I’ll get right to the point. Today I’m using all tools at my disposal, including the Adventure Life blog, to appeal to you to finally take that mother-daughter trip with me to Patagonia. With Mother’s Day approaching this weekend, I thought the timing was right — thematically anyway. Also, you are probably wondering why the card I sent has a picture of Torres del Paine on the front. Well, this explains it.

We’ve been toying with the idea for a while, but it’s time to make it happen. Don’t worry, we have plenty of time to plan. The best time to visit Patagonia is during our winter season, so I was thinking we could sneak away in early December when the weather in Patagonia is cooperating and there isn’t a chance your golf course will be open. (Mom, we’ll discuss your golf addiction later.) And Mom, we’re going to hike the W circuit.

Here’s my pitch:

Chile’s Torres del Paine National Park offers granite peaks, enormous glaciers, waterfalls, turquoise lakes and temperate rainforests — this is the backdrop for our trek. We’ll never get any higher in elevation than about 3700 feet, so don’t worry about altitude sickness. For the most part, the W circuit avoids the difficult and taxing routes in the park except for the last section to the Torres. But hey, you teach first-graders — “difficult” and “taxing” are part of your everyday vocabulary.

Base camp will be EcoCamp; it’s domes are designed to respect the surrounding environment and also to interfere as little as possible with the natural beauty of the park. And yes, there’s wine.

We’ll leave the notorious homebody (also known as Dad) in his favorite spot – he has his yoga and Michael Pollen to keep him company.

Everyone’s doing it. Adventure Lifers Julia, Kassi, Marissa and Mary have already taken their moms on trips to the Galapagos, Belize, Costa Rica and Panama. I’d happily put you in touch with one of them as a reference to testify that this whole mother-daughter trip-thing is right up our alley. Julia and her mom did a mainland Galapagos multisport trip that included 9 days of snorkeling, horseback riding, mountain biking and hiking. Marissa and her mom took to the jungles and beaches of Belize for great caving and snorkeling. Come on Mom, you’re making me look bad.

If I haven’t sold Patagonia to you, then you pick the place. After all, the destination is only part of the package; quite honestly I’m really looking forward to the good company …

Wishing you — and all the patient, understanding, good-humored and loving moms out there — a very Happy Mother’s Day.

Love,
Beth

The rewards of high elevation adventure - the Andes don't disappoint!

The signs
Signs of altitude sickness include dizziness, headache, nausea/vomiting, trembling, clumsiness, poor sleep, lack of appetite or overall feeling of exhaustion or lethargy. Imagine a bad hangover — not so fun. Many travelers coming off of a long flight tend to simply waive these symptoms off as jet-lag, maybe one too many bags of airplane peanuts or too much caffeine to counter the jet-lag.

Prevention
It’s hard to predict who will fall victim to altitude sickness, and who will not. A general rule of thumb: if you’ve experienced it before, you’re likely to experience it again. It is much easier to prevent, than to treat, altitude sickness. Here are a few helpful tips to do just that.

Allow yourself time to acclimatize
Spend some sometime adjusting to your new environment – and take it easy the first few days at a higher altitude. This is the perfect excuse to site-see, take a leisurely stroll and check out a few local markets and cuisine. Eating a lot of carbohydrates, like breads, cereals, and pasta can also help prevent altitude sickness.

Stay hydrated
Drink lots of water, even if you’re not thirsty. Because there is less oxygen in the atmosphere, you and your lungs will naturally work harder to get what you need. Combine that with exertion and sweating from trekking and you’ve potentially created the perfect recipe for dehydration. Start drinking water before you get on the plane and keep plenty on hand throughout your travels. It’s a good idea to limit alcohol intake the first day or so at higher elevation as well.

Ascend slowly
If possible, ascending at a sensible rate (roughly a 1,000 feet gain in altitude per day) should give your body enough time to acclimatize as you ascend. But if you’re hiking high passes, or flying into high altitude cities like Cusco, Peru or La Paz, Bolivia, a slow ascend isn’t always an option. If this is the case, drink lots of water, take it easy and consider a medication…

Consider a medication
Talk to your doctor about a common prescription used to prevent altitude sickness called Acetazolamide or Diamox. You can live with the side-effects: it makes your hands and feet tingle, and carbonated drinks taste odd. Keep in mind, you’ll need to take the medication before symptoms appear — this is a preventative measure. There is also talk of using ibuprofin as a means to avoid the headache and nausea. But again, and as always, talk to your doctor about the best options available for you.

Coca tea?
In many South American countries, drinking coca tea, or chewing coca leaves, is done by locals to combat altitude sickness. It is believed that doing such helps increase the absorption of oxygen in blood. I’ve heard mixed reviews, but if nothing else drinking the decaffeinated tea helps with hydration. Some people swear by it, others are indifferent. When I hiked the Inca Trail, I did not drink coca tea, and did not experience altitude sickness. Instead I drank a lot of water, allowed time to acclimatize and didn’t overdue it. But I’m sort of inclined to recommend the “when in Rome” method…

And remember
While I’m on the subject of high elevations, now is a perfect time to remind you to wear your sunscreen. In high elevations you will find both less protective atmosphere in the form of a thinner ozone layer and high surface reflectivity in the form of snow and ice. So slather on that sunscreen!

Machu Picchu reopens April 1, after January downpours washed away access.

Access to Machu Picchu is very limited — the rail is the only practical way to the ruins, other than your own two feet on the Inca Trail. When downpours in January washed out portions of the railway, access to the ruins and the nearby town was virtually impossible. The open of the railway and Machu Picchu is celebrated by Peruvians and Peru travelers alike!

There are still portions of the rail that are not in operation. So travelers will use a combined method of train and vehicle transport.

Travelers will take a car or bus from Ollantaytambo to Piscaycucho (50 min.); then board the train at Piscaycucho to Machu Picchu Town and the ruins (70 min.). If things continue to go as scheduled, the entire rail is estimated to be running as usual within the next two to three weeks.

Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail are not only visually stunning, their history, cultural importance, architectural mastery, and spiritual significance have graduated this region into legendary status.

Machu Picchu ruins in Peru - Photo by John Keller

The short version:
The damage on the lengthy, “backroad route” was greater than originally predicted, and the anticipated Feb. 22 re-open date of Machu Picchu came, went and we now look toward a new date: April 1st. By April 1st, Minister of Transportation (Secretary of Transportation), Mr. Enrique Cornejo, has confirmed there will be access to Machu Picchu through a combined train and vehicle transport.

Travelers will take a car or bus from Ollantaytambo to Piscaycucho (50 min.); then board the train at Piscaycucho to Machu Picchu Town and the ruins (70 min.).

This delay will also affect Inca Trail trekkers. The trail is wrapping up its annual maintenance, preparing for its adventurous hikers — but once trekkers reach Machu Picchu there is not a return route available until April 1st.

The long version:
The heavy rainfall that hit southern Peru at the end of January, flooded the Vilcanota and Urumbama river and caused mudslides that made headlines for damaging the railroad to Machu Picchu and limiting access in and out of the region.

Just like you, we are disappointed that the original re-open date has been delayed. But the good news is, there is definitely progress underway. Repairs to the main rail are going well. Originally, reports from the Peru Tourism Board and railway operator, FTSA, anticipated that access would be available starting Feb. 22 by taking a train ride from Machu Picchu Town to the Hydroelectric station in Santa Teresa (about a 45 min. trip), and from there to take a car back to Cusco (roughly 6 to 7 hour trip). Not ideal, but at least it was an option. But while repairs to the rail are following schedule, there was more significant damage to this road than originally estimated. The initial time frame to open the road by Feb 22 was not possible.

The original schedule of the re-opening was designed as a three step process — three routes opening up over the next few months. The April 1st deadline is right in line with the original schedule — however it was supposed to be the second access option, not the first. But from all the conversations and information we’ve received from our local affiliates, the Peru tourism board and Peruvian transportation department — we remain very optimistic that the April 1st date will bring with it Machu Picchu’s grand re-opening!

Please note, these are of course subject to change, but we remain confident that FTSA and the Peruvian government will stick to the April 1st date as closely as possible. And pressure to do so, is great.

I know, I know; this whole “schedule” and “re-opening” thing sounds a little messy… But things are already settling down, shaping up, and moving forward.

And remember, if you have any questions on how this might affect your trip — ask us! We can help you find an alternative itinerary, customized to some of Peru’s best kept secrets you may not have originally considered.

The Inca ruins of Machu Picchu, hidden in the Peruvian Andes

Many of you are familiar with the heavy rainfall that hit southern Peru at the end of January. Peru is no stranger to such downpours, but this season the rainfall that hit the region, flooded the Vilcanota and Urumbama river and caused mudslides that made headlines for damaging the railroad to Machu Picchu and limiting access in and out of the region. Machu Picchu was built by the Inca empire, strategically hid away in the Andean mountains; the train has been essentially the only way in and out of the region — other than by your own two-feet on the classic Inca Trail trek.

The weather and rainfall has returned to normal, activities in surrounding areas such as the Sacred Valley and Cusco are operating as usual. Machu Picchu itself was not damaged by the mudslides — thanks almost entirely to the master Inca engineers who originally built the structure, which includes an impressive drainage system to filter water away from the city and off the mountains. If you happened to see the feature on NOVA “Ghosts of Machu Picchu” you know what I’m talking about. Like I said, Peru is no stranger to downpours…

But while the main rail is damaged, and access limited, there are a few changes travelers should know regarding a visit to Machu Picchu in the next few months.

As of today, here is the most recent and reliable information we have. In order to reestablish access to the ruins and Machu Picchu Town (also called Aguas Calientes) the railway operator, Ferrocarril Transandio S.A. or FTSA, has outlined the following schedule.

1. Hydroelectric to Machu Picchu Town: In roughly two weeks (by Feb. 22), visitors and residents will be able to use bimodal transportation to get back to Cusco from Machu Picchu town. This means a train ride from Machu Picchu town to the Hydroelectric station in Santa Teresa (about a 45 min. trip), and from there to take a car back to Cusco (roughly 6 to 7 hour trip).

2. Piscaycucho to Machu Picchu Town: In roughly 6 weeks, visitors will again be able to reach the ruins by combined means of train and car, but in a lot less transport time than the first option. Here, visitors can take a train from Machu Picchu Town to Piscaycucho (1 and 1/2 hour trip), and from here, take a car back to Cusco (another 1 and 1/2 hour trip).

3. Ollantaytambo to Piscayucho: This is the final leg of the common rail route, that is hoped to be complete within 7 weeks. This means, it is estimated that regular rail operation to and from Cusco to Machu Picchu Town will return to normal within 7 weeks.

Please note, these are of course subject to change, but we remain confident that FTSA and the Peruvian government will stick to this schedule as closely as possible. And pressure to do so, is great.

Regarding Inca Trail Trekkers:
Each year, the Classic Inca Trail is closed in February for normal maintenance. As of now, it is scheduled to reopen as usual. However, once trekkers reach Machu Picchu, they may encounter difficulties returning to Cusco. If trekking within the next 7 weeks, travelers will need to utilize one of the three options listed above to return to Cusco.

Rest assured, everyone, from the Peruvian government to the local infrastructures, residents of Machu Picchu Town and the Peruvian Tourism Board are working as hard as possible to re-open access to Machu Picchu and its nearby community.

If you are at all concerned about how this will affect your itinerary, ask us! We are in constant communication with our local Peru affiliates and receive consistent updates from the Peru Tourism Board.

And keep in mind, while Machu Picchu is an unforgettable place to visit, Peru offers nearly unlimited historical sites and activities – many of which rival the legendary Machu Picchu. The Nazca Lines, Ollantaytambo, the Amazon, Colca Canyon, Arequipa, Lake Titicaca… not to mention Cusco and the Sacred Valley, which along with fascinating culture and ruins, include awesome multisport activities. There are many other hiking circuits in the Andes to explore as well – many sought after by the world’s best trekkers. Want to know other hidden-treasures Peru has to offer? Again, ask us! A handful of our staff has lived, worked, visited or study in Peru and love to share our experiences. Myself included!

Volunteering:
If you’d like to lend a hand to some of the people who have been affected by the flooding, we have received a request from our local affiliates to encourage our travelers to participate in needed activities in the Cachiccata community. Such activities include house and school restoration, healthy meals for kids, community cleaning or a handful of other service projects to consider.

I’ll keep you posted if there are any additional changes to the rail route and access to Machu Picchu.