Airlines announce that starting Jan. 1, 2012 - all internal Ecuadorian flights - including those to the Galapagos - will have a fuel surcharge

UPDATE Jan 9, 2012 – For both Aerogal and TAME flights, fuel surcharges can now be paid in advance to our offices. There will no longer be any payments made locally at the airport. Please see additional details in comments section below.

All flights starting on January 1, 2012 to the Galapagos, will be subject to a fuel surcharge. It does not matter when the flights were booked, and applies to flights departing/arriving from both Quito and Guayaquil to/from the Galapagos. Travelers should expect the fuel surcharge to be roughly $70 for each leg; a round-trip ticket will see an increase of $140.

Depending on the airline and departure city, here is the costs for fuel surcharges for flights to/from the Galapagos for flights on or after Jan. 1, 2012:

Aerogal
$50 USD per way in flights to/from Quito – Galapagos
$50 USD per way in flights to/from Guayaquil – Galapagos

TAME
$70 USD per way in flights to/from Quito – Galpaagos
$60 per way in flights to/from Guayaquil – Galapagos

Why the increase?
In the past, the Ecuadorian government supplied a 40% fuel subsidy for internal flights. Officially announced earlier this week, the government is no longer offering this subsidy to the airlines, which means, in order to cover costs, there will be an increase in costs for all domestic Ecuadorian flights, this, of course, includes those to the Galapagos Islands.

There is still some mystery to exactly what travelers can expect to pay for which airline and whether or not this surcharge needs to be paid locally or in advance. We’re on top of things, and are eagerly waiting details from the airlines.

I understand that this is surprising and frustrating – believe me, we, and operators throughout the industry, share your sentiments. I will share updates as soon as they are available. In the meantime, please contact us if you have any questions on how this will affect your Ecuador or Galapagos travels.

Weddell Seal, Antarctica - photo by Laurie Allread

December 3, 2011

We arrived at Macquarie Island about 7am. The sea was calm and the weather was foggy with light mist. We were met by park rangers from the ANARE station for a walk around the Isthmus. The Isthmus was teaming with wildlife including huge male elephant seals, king penguins and rock hoppers. We spent about 2.5 hours on the Isthmus and then took a quick zodiac ride to view Shags before returning to the Ship for a quick lunch. After lunch, we visited Sandy beach, where Royal Penguin colonies sprawled across the landscape. This part of the island is known for the 100,000 pairs of Royal penguins who breed only on Macquarie Island.

December 4, 2011

We arrived at Lusitania Bay at 7am to view the King Penguins colony which was clearly visible from the bow of the ship. We watched the King Penguins and the view of Macquarie Island fade as we headed north toward Hobart, Tasmania, Australia.

(This is Laurie’s fourth visit to Antarctica. She is blogging her way through this epic month-long Antarctica cruise; the Kapitan Khlebnikov’s Ross Sea Centennial Voyage. This is Laurie’s final post from the field. Pictures from Laurie’s past Antarctica travels are found on her website.)

Antarctica Icebergs

November 27, 2011
The Ross Ice Shelf came into view about noon. Size of France and is about 600 miles The vastness cannot be captured in with any lens. The icy cold winds coming off the shelf stirred my imagination about the explorers that had to tackle this massive piece of ice before beginning their journey to the south pole.

November 28th, 2011
Sadly, we continued to head north out of the ice. The day was mostly spent outdoors on the bow enjoying the ice and watching for wildlife on passing ice floes. Other passengers attended multiple lectures.

November 29, 2011
Another wonderful day was spent traveling through pack ice and among icebergs. The salmon colored evening sky made a stunning backdrop for the icebergs.

November 30, 2011
It was our last day in the ice. We celebrated Kapitan Khlebnikov’s final farewell to the Ross Sea on the stern as we passed the last iceberg. Next destination is Macquarie Island. We intend to have two landings and one zodiac rides around the islands. Thousands of Royal Penguins, King Penguins and Seals await us but there are two more sea days before we arrive. But now, we prepare for swells of the open sea during the next 700 miles.

(This is Laurie’s fourth visit to Antarctica. She is blogging her way through this epic month-long Antarctica cruise; the Kapitan Khlebnikov’s Ross Sea Centennial Voyage. Tune in for daily updates from the field. Pictures from Laurie’s past Antarctica travels are found on her website.)

Antarctica at sunset - photo by Laurie Allread

Much to our surprise, the winds increased to 44 knots which again prevented the helicopters from flying to Ross Island for sightseeing. The expedition leader gave up on the weather and decided we should head north, approximately 140 miles northeast to the Ross ice Shelf. Then, as soon as ship started backing up, the wind speed decreased to 30 knots, just enough for us to take a quick flight to visit Cape Evans. We weren’t able to visit either base or hike Observation hill, but visiting Scott’s Discovery Hut at Cape Evans was worth the wait. Seldom, are passenger ships able to get through the ice to see the famous hut.

After dinner the Captain headed the ship north east toward our next destination, the Ross Ice Shelf. The evening sun shining over Mount Erebus was magnificent. The top of Mount Erebus was finally in total view!

(This is Laurie’s fourth visit to Antarctica. She is blogging her way through this epic month-long Antarctica cruise; the Kapitan Khlebnikov’s Ross Sea Centennial Voyage. Tune in for daily updates from the field. Pictures from Laurie’s past Antarctica travels are found on her website.)

The Kapitan Klebnikov in Antarctica - photo by Laurie Allread

Our plans for visiting McMurdo and Ross Stations, Scott’s Discovery hut at Cape Evans and hiking Observation Hill were delayed by the weather. Here in Antarctica, “weather is our master”, our expedition leader, Shane Envoy, has reminded us many times. Whiteout conditions and 40 knot winds lasted throughout the day with temperature of 30 degrees below zero when considering the wind chill factor. During the afternoon, the whiteout lifted but the winds continued to blow. Nevertheless some of the passengers ventured out to view the partial solar eclipse. The solar eclipse was only visible from Antarctica and Southern New Zealand. What a surprise. This rare event was not even on the itinerary!

(This is Laurie’s fourth visit to Antarctica. She is blogging her way through this epic month-long Antarctica cruise; the Kapitan Khlebnikov’s Ross Sea Centennial Voyage. Tune in for daily updates from the field. Pictures from Laurie’s past Antarctica travels are found on her website.)

Our visit to the Adelie Penguin Colony was cut short by white conditions with 40 knots per hour winds. All passengers were on the island which was a ten minute helicopter ride from the icebreaker. After one hour on shore, the wind and snow flurries increased until the icebreaker was no longer visible from shore. By that time, we were spread out over a one mile stretch of beach. We hurried back to the three tents at base camp for warmth until the helicopters were able to return to the island to pick us up for our safe return to the ship. After returning to the ship we all were thankful for our brief but real Antarctica experience!

Antarctica - photo by Laurie Allread

(This is Laurie’s fourth visit to Antarctica. She is blogging her way through this epic month-long Antarctica cruise; the Kapitan Khlebnikov’s Ross Sea Centennial Voyage. Tune in for daily updates from the field. Pictures from Laurie’s past Antarctica travels are found on her website.)

Photo taken by Laurie Allread Nov. 21, 2011 from McMurdo Sound

Last night, we left Franklin Island about 10 pm and continued our journey south to McMurdo Sound. Mt Erbus came into view during early afternoon. What a lovely sight as we cruised along side Ross Island. The ice was amazingly thin for this time of year which allowed the Captain to park the Kapitan Khlebnikov a few miles from Cape Royds. It is extremely unusual to get into the ice so close to Cape Royds.

Suddenly after securing a position for the ship to begin the helicopter operation to Shackleton’s hut, whiteout condition appeared from nowhere. The operation was delayed but we all made it off the ship to visit the hut within the next few hours. The hut was constructed during Shackleton’s Nimrod Expedition 1907-1909. It was used again during his later expeditions. The 7 x 8.5 m hut housed 14 occupants. It also contains a laboratory and darkroom.

The Antarctic Heritage Trust maintains the hut and its artifacts so that this part of Antarctica history will never be lost. They allow only few people at a time into the hut for 15 minutes. Still, for those for those few minutes, I traveled back into time.

(This is Laurie’s fourth visit to Antarctica. She is blogging her way through this epic month-long Antarctica cruise; the Kapitan Khlebnikov’s Ross Sea Centennial Voyage. Tune in for daily updates from the field. Pictures from Laurie’s past Antarctica travels are found on her website.)

115 miles from the Antarctic Peninsula - photo by Laurie Allread

We spent the day heading toward Cape Washington or Coulman Island to visit emperor Penguins. The currents and wind changes throughout the day causing the ice to change directions. The sky is overcast and colder than the previous day. We spent the day watching the penguins scurry from the ship as it powered through the ice.

After lunch we took helicopter rides for landscape viewing and to view the ship crushing through the ice. It is not possible appreciate the power of the ice breaker until watching it’s power from the co-pilots’s seat where I was luck enough to sit!

Later, the sun appeared brighter than ever. The lectures were postponed and everyone gathered outside to view the Antarctica Peninsula from 115 miles away!

At 11 pm, sunglasses were still required due to the sun’s intensity. 360 degrees of ice, blue sky and patches of blue sea were all I can see. This is the bottom of the earth, is all I could think. I stopped taking pictures to look, to take it all in and to be in the moment. I hope that the camera in my mind never loses this image as no wide angle lens could possibly capture the vastness and awe of this place.

(This is Laurie’s fourth visit to Antarctica. She is blogging her way through this epic month-long Antarctica trip; the Kapitan Khlebnikov’s Ross Sea Centennial Voyage. Tune in for daily updates from the field. Pictures from Laurie’s past Antarctica travels are found on her website.)

The Kapitan Klebnikov pushes through ice - Photo by Laurie Allread

In short, our plan tomorrow is to go South!

(This is Laurie’s fourth visit to Antarctica. She is blogging her way through this epic month-long Antarctica trip; the Kapitan Khlebnikov’s Ross Sea Centennial Voyage. Tune in for daily updates from the field. Pictures from Laurie’s past Antarctica travels are found on her website.)

Photo by Laurie Allread - Taken enroute to Snow Hill on her 2008 Antarctica

This morning we arrived at Perseverance Harbor, Campbell Island about 8am. Wind was 30 knots and temperature about 40 F degrees. The 100 passengers were divided into several groups by ability: ie. fast to slow walkers. The goal was to complete the 2.5 mile walk with 811 feet elevation gain to the top of the island to view the south side of the island. We hoped to see Southern Royal Albatrosses. Much to our surprise, we watched several pairs doing their courtship rituals including mutual preening.. We were careful to not interrupt the birds which was somewhat difficult as the big birds nested right beside the one foot wide boardwalk.

After lunch, we headed south out of the Perseverance Harbor. Next stop is Antarctica. The expedition leader, Mike Messick, announced that that now would be a good time to take a shower as the next two days are expected to be rough. The rolling is already 15 to 30 degrees at times. The Captain just closed the bridge as the rolling is exaggerated on the higher decks.

Everyone seems to be in the lounge on the 5th floor or in their rooms. Finally, we are now in the Southern Ocean where the waves are expected to be very high until we arrive are the ice.

(This is Laurie’s fourth visit to Antarctica. She is blogging her way through this epic month-long Antarctica trip; the Kapitan Khlebnikov’s Ross Sea Centennial Voyage. Tune in for daily updates from the field. Pictures from Laurie’s past Antarctica travels are found on her website.)