Protests places rocks on the streets to prevent traffic. Photos courtesy of CNR

Rock clean-up begins

Strikes in Cusco-Machu Picchu region

Update June 23, 2010: Over the weekend, strikes came to an end, and things have returned to normal.

Over the past ten days, there have been 3 strikes in the Cusco-Machu Picchu region that have disrupted the transportation systems, requiring Adventure Life to adjust itineraries for our travelers in the region. After eleven years of providing trips in Peru, we are certainly no strangers to strikes, which occur frequently. The past years have taught us how to adept quickly to strikes, modify our plans accordingly, and — thanks to our incredible local guides — usually seamlessly.

The strikes over the past 10 days have been focused on two main issues:

- The exportation of liquefied natural gas to Mexico, Canada, or Spain when opponents feel that this gas reserve won’t be enough to meet both export and domestic needs. There is a reported demand for cheap gas in Peru already.

- Groups are demanding funds to repair irrigation channels damaged by last January’s heavy rainfall and flooding.

These strikes are non-violent and not directed toward tourists. As with most strikes, social groups are making a statement to the Peruvian government. In this case, they are doing so by blocking the roads outside of Cusco and in the Sacred Valley as well as the train to Machu Picchu with rocks and logs. Strikes are often announced (sometimes hours or even days) in advance to encourage negotiation and to leverage the government. If this fails, the groups take to the roads, scattering rocks and logs in an attempt to make them impassable. Almost like clock-work, the roads are then cleaned up around dinner time, and normal routines return.

Flexibility has always been an important element to our itineraries, and over the past week, we’ve put it to good use. With their ears to the ground, our guides have done a fantastic job deciding if and when changing an itinerary is necessary to minimize the disruptions of the strike, and to make sure our travelers are safe. Most changes have involved transfer times, or alternating the schedule of original itineraries. We might even change a trip to spend an extra day at Machu Picchu to adjust to canceled train service. For example, our trips have free days in Cusco that can be interchanged to still have a buffer if we need to move our travelers to a different train to Machu Picchu.

As I mentioned before, these events are non-violent, relatively short-lived, and remain a part of travel in the developing world. While the strikes were certainly not an anticipated part of the itinerary, they do reveal some of the unique and important social issues that impact the regions we visit.

I would like to thank our guides and local staff in Cusco and Lima for their quick-thinking and problem-solving in order to make sure our travelers are safe and that, while schedules might be altered, no destination is missed.

And thank you to our travelers who have displayed a fantastic spirit of travel. We appreciate your flexibility, patience, and understanding during these times. I am glad to hear that regardless of the last-minute strikes, you’ve enjoyed your experiences in Peru.

International headlines have been pretty quiet regarding the strikes in Peru — and we are hopeful that they are quickly coming to a rest. But if you are interested in more information about the strikes, the website Living in Peru is a good resource for those whose Spanish is not quite up to par (this includes yours-truly). Or certainly, feel free to contact us if you have more questions on how or if the strikes might affect your up-coming Peru trip.

In terms of the need for repairs to the irrigation channels that were damaged in January’s floods, I will have more news of this in the following weeks with information about Adventure Life’s role in helping a local community deal with their damaged irrigation system.

Machu Picchu reopens April 1, after January downpours washed away access.

Access to Machu Picchu is very limited — the rail is the only practical way to the ruins, other than your own two feet on the Inca Trail. When downpours in January washed out portions of the railway, access to the ruins and the nearby town was virtually impossible. The open of the railway and Machu Picchu is celebrated by Peruvians and Peru travelers alike!

There are still portions of the rail that are not in operation. So travelers will use a combined method of train and vehicle transport.

Travelers will take a car or bus from Ollantaytambo to Piscaycucho (50 min.); then board the train at Piscaycucho to Machu Picchu Town and the ruins (70 min.). If things continue to go as scheduled, the entire rail is estimated to be running as usual within the next two to three weeks.

Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail are not only visually stunning, their history, cultural importance, architectural mastery, and spiritual significance have graduated this region into legendary status.

Machu Picchu ruins in Peru - Photo by John Keller

The short version:
The damage on the lengthy, “backroad route” was greater than originally predicted, and the anticipated Feb. 22 re-open date of Machu Picchu came, went and we now look toward a new date: April 1st. By April 1st, Minister of Transportation (Secretary of Transportation), Mr. Enrique Cornejo, has confirmed there will be access to Machu Picchu through a combined train and vehicle transport.

Travelers will take a car or bus from Ollantaytambo to Piscaycucho (50 min.); then board the train at Piscaycucho to Machu Picchu Town and the ruins (70 min.).

This delay will also affect Inca Trail trekkers. The trail is wrapping up its annual maintenance, preparing for its adventurous hikers — but once trekkers reach Machu Picchu there is not a return route available until April 1st.

The long version:
The heavy rainfall that hit southern Peru at the end of January, flooded the Vilcanota and Urumbama river and caused mudslides that made headlines for damaging the railroad to Machu Picchu and limiting access in and out of the region.

Just like you, we are disappointed that the original re-open date has been delayed. But the good news is, there is definitely progress underway. Repairs to the main rail are going well. Originally, reports from the Peru Tourism Board and railway operator, FTSA, anticipated that access would be available starting Feb. 22 by taking a train ride from Machu Picchu Town to the Hydroelectric station in Santa Teresa (about a 45 min. trip), and from there to take a car back to Cusco (roughly 6 to 7 hour trip). Not ideal, but at least it was an option. But while repairs to the rail are following schedule, there was more significant damage to this road than originally estimated. The initial time frame to open the road by Feb 22 was not possible.

The original schedule of the re-opening was designed as a three step process — three routes opening up over the next few months. The April 1st deadline is right in line with the original schedule — however it was supposed to be the second access option, not the first. But from all the conversations and information we’ve received from our local affiliates, the Peru tourism board and Peruvian transportation department — we remain very optimistic that the April 1st date will bring with it Machu Picchu’s grand re-opening!

Please note, these are of course subject to change, but we remain confident that FTSA and the Peruvian government will stick to the April 1st date as closely as possible. And pressure to do so, is great.

I know, I know; this whole “schedule” and “re-opening” thing sounds a little messy… But things are already settling down, shaping up, and moving forward.

And remember, if you have any questions on how this might affect your trip — ask us! We can help you find an alternative itinerary, customized to some of Peru’s best kept secrets you may not have originally considered.

The Inca ruins of Machu Picchu, hidden in the Peruvian Andes

Many of you are familiar with the heavy rainfall that hit southern Peru at the end of January. Peru is no stranger to such downpours, but this season the rainfall that hit the region, flooded the Vilcanota and Urumbama river and caused mudslides that made headlines for damaging the railroad to Machu Picchu and limiting access in and out of the region. Machu Picchu was built by the Inca empire, strategically hid away in the Andean mountains; the train has been essentially the only way in and out of the region — other than by your own two-feet on the classic Inca Trail trek.

The weather and rainfall has returned to normal, activities in surrounding areas such as the Sacred Valley and Cusco are operating as usual. Machu Picchu itself was not damaged by the mudslides — thanks almost entirely to the master Inca engineers who originally built the structure, which includes an impressive drainage system to filter water away from the city and off the mountains. If you happened to see the feature on NOVA “Ghosts of Machu Picchu” you know what I’m talking about. Like I said, Peru is no stranger to downpours…

But while the main rail is damaged, and access limited, there are a few changes travelers should know regarding a visit to Machu Picchu in the next few months.

As of today, here is the most recent and reliable information we have. In order to reestablish access to the ruins and Machu Picchu Town (also called Aguas Calientes) the railway operator, Ferrocarril Transandio S.A. or FTSA, has outlined the following schedule.

1. Hydroelectric to Machu Picchu Town: In roughly two weeks (by Feb. 22), visitors and residents will be able to use bimodal transportation to get back to Cusco from Machu Picchu town. This means a train ride from Machu Picchu town to the Hydroelectric station in Santa Teresa (about a 45 min. trip), and from there to take a car back to Cusco (roughly 6 to 7 hour trip).

2. Piscaycucho to Machu Picchu Town: In roughly 6 weeks, visitors will again be able to reach the ruins by combined means of train and car, but in a lot less transport time than the first option. Here, visitors can take a train from Machu Picchu Town to Piscaycucho (1 and 1/2 hour trip), and from here, take a car back to Cusco (another 1 and 1/2 hour trip).

3. Ollantaytambo to Piscayucho: This is the final leg of the common rail route, that is hoped to be complete within 7 weeks. This means, it is estimated that regular rail operation to and from Cusco to Machu Picchu Town will return to normal within 7 weeks.

Please note, these are of course subject to change, but we remain confident that FTSA and the Peruvian government will stick to this schedule as closely as possible. And pressure to do so, is great.

Regarding Inca Trail Trekkers:
Each year, the Classic Inca Trail is closed in February for normal maintenance. As of now, it is scheduled to reopen as usual. However, once trekkers reach Machu Picchu, they may encounter difficulties returning to Cusco. If trekking within the next 7 weeks, travelers will need to utilize one of the three options listed above to return to Cusco.

Rest assured, everyone, from the Peruvian government to the local infrastructures, residents of Machu Picchu Town and the Peruvian Tourism Board are working as hard as possible to re-open access to Machu Picchu and its nearby community.

If you are at all concerned about how this will affect your itinerary, ask us! We are in constant communication with our local Peru affiliates and receive consistent updates from the Peru Tourism Board.

And keep in mind, while Machu Picchu is an unforgettable place to visit, Peru offers nearly unlimited historical sites and activities – many of which rival the legendary Machu Picchu. The Nazca Lines, Ollantaytambo, the Amazon, Colca Canyon, Arequipa, Lake Titicaca… not to mention Cusco and the Sacred Valley, which along with fascinating culture and ruins, include awesome multisport activities. There are many other hiking circuits in the Andes to explore as well – many sought after by the world’s best trekkers. Want to know other hidden-treasures Peru has to offer? Again, ask us! A handful of our staff has lived, worked, visited or study in Peru and love to share our experiences. Myself included!

Volunteering:
If you’d like to lend a hand to some of the people who have been affected by the flooding, we have received a request from our local affiliates to encourage our travelers to participate in needed activities in the Cachiccata community. Such activities include house and school restoration, healthy meals for kids, community cleaning or a handful of other service projects to consider.

I’ll keep you posted if there are any additional changes to the rail route and access to Machu Picchu.

Enjoying a little causa rellena, compliments of our Peru guide, Marco, in the Sacred Valley

The Sacred Valley - Not a bad place for a picnic lunch

Causa refers to the yellow potato (papa amarilla), and rellena refers to the stuffing. Feel free to get clever with the recipe – and presentation. But try this simple and tasty Latin American comfort food for yourself…

Causa (potato)
- 8 yellow potatoes (boiled, peeled and mashed)
- 3 yellow peppers
- Juice from 3 limes
- 2 tbsp. vegetable oil
- 2 cloves of garlic
- salt and pepper to taste

Rellena (stuffing)
- ½ cup mayonnaise
- ½ chopped med. onion
- 1 tsp. mustard
- 2 hard boiled eggs (chopped)
- 1 avocado (cut into slices)
- black olives (chopped) to your preference
- For a little extra protein, add cooked chicken breast or tuna to your stuffing

Cook
1. Saute yellow peppers and garlic in vegetable oil until soft. Place in blender with mashed potatoes, lime juice and salt and pepper. Process until smooth.

2. Mix all stuffing ingredients (mayonnaise, onion, mustard, boiled eggs, avocado, olives and optional chicken/tuna) in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste

3. To serve, shape ½ potato mixture into a square on a plate. Spoon stuffing mixture over potatoes, and layer the remaining potato mixture on top. Eat!

Train to Machu Picchu in Peru

A reed boat -- Lake Titicaca, Peru

Lynessa will add Peru to her list of international adventures — a list that also includes Costa Rica, Nicaragua, Guatemala, Mexico, Scotland, UK, Spain and Canada.

The Nelsons promise me both a fantastic journal and surprising photographs of their journey. Can’t wait!

Oh, and a quick note to Lynessa — On the edge of Cucso’s Plaza de Armas is a frequented Gato Market. A very convenient market for the gringo and a good place to stock up on water or day-snacks or any little item you may have forgotten to include in your suitcase. As a special bonus — right outside the market is a lady who sells fresh, hand-made tamales. I understand she’s been in that same spot for years. The tamales? Fantastic. Forgive me, but I cannot remember her name.

Wishing you safe and happy travels, Lynessa and Matt!

Traveler outside of her dome at Torres del Paine's EcoCamp

EcoCamp at sunrise -- hard to beat that view

A remote welcome from Sacha Lodge, in the Ecuadorian Amazon

Madidi River, enroute to Chalalan Lodge in Bolivia

Waterfall hike in the Costa Rican jungle during a stay at Selva Bananito

Visit largest parrot and macaw clay lick in the 4.4 million acre Manu Biosphere Reserve

By Shannon Beineke
Ecotourism has skyrocketed in recent years. As a result, many lodges around the world are now claiming to be eco-friendly, but it can be hard to tell which places are truly considerate of environmental issues. Fortunately, the very best eco-lodges in Latin America leave zero room for doubt.

EcoCamp in Patagonia
In Patagonia of Chile, EcoCamp helps visitors make minimal impact on the environment. The dome-shaped design was inspired by huts of the nomadic Kawesqar people. EcoCamp units are less vulnerable to 100 mph winds. While Kawesqar huts were made from local materials covered in animal skins, EcoCamp domes are made from sturdy materials collected outside of Torres del Paine National Park. Each foundation-free dome is removed seasonally so the land can fully recover, and using 17 hours of sun each day, solar panels power toilet fans and indoor lighting. It’s no wonder EcoCamp was the first Chilean hospitality company to receive the esteemed Enviromental Management Systems Certification: ISO 14001 from the SGS of Switzerland.

Sacha Lodge in Ecuador
Sacha Lodge is located on a private 5,000-acre reserve. Approximately 50 miles east of Coca in Ecuador, it’s nestled on Pilchicocha lagoon, near the dark and mysterious Napo river. This eco-friendly lodge is almost completely concealed by forestry. In fact, “Sacha” is the Quichua Indian word for “forest.” Each thatched-roof hut is made of local materials and screened in to keep insects at bay. A diesel generator powers the electricity. Remember, “lights off” is at 10:00 pm! Also, each unit has its own bathroom, complete with biodegradable soaps and shampoos. Runoff water is treated with ozone to keep the environment intact. With miles of footpaths and canoe routes nearby, Sacha Lodge is the ideal eco-friendly “home base” for Amazon Basin exploration.

Chalalan Lodge in Bolivia
The San Jos de Uchupiamonas are an indigenous Amazon community in Bolivia. They’ve lived in the Madidi National Park jungle for centuries. With help from Conservation International, the natives built solar-powered cabins and created Chalalan Lodge. Traditional building styles and local Madidi materials were used to keep construction eco-friendly. Now guests can enjoy home-cooked meals, musical shows, dances, and even moon-lit canoe rides. All of the proceeds help over 100 local families sustain life in the Amazonian jungle. Their precious home is among the most ecologically sensitive areas in the world, so it needs to be respected and protected. Be prepared for a trip! Chalalan is a 5-hour boat ride from the nearest town.

Selva Bananito in Costa Rica
Selva Bananito is run by Rain Forest Conservation Through Tourism, Inc. It’s the only eco-lodge in Costa Rica built with recycled waste wood. During construction, instead of being set in the forest, each cabin was placed in an area that had already been affected by humans. In addition, Selva Bananito doesn’t even offer electricity! This makes it ideal for an environmentally low-impact getaway. The lodge is located near Muchilla Mountain in Limon, at the south end of the Cordillera de Talamanca range; home to the gargantuan La Amistad Biosphere Reserve. Over 2 million acres of protected land in this area make the “green belt.” It’s the least-explored territory in all of Costa Rica, so Selva Bananito guests can discover unspoiled nature without harming it.

Manu Wildlife Center in Peru
The Manu Wildlife Center offers access to 40,000 acres of rainforest, with more than 30 miles of nearby footpaths to explore. Guests can see several species of monkeys and birds close up as they wander through the Amazon. They can also visit the largest tapir lick in the world, 120-foot-tall canopy platforms, or lakes full of hoatzins and giant otters. The Manu Wildlife Center offers a one-of-a-kind experience both outside and indoors. Guests can enjoy screened-in bungalows, electricity, showers with hot running water, and all-cedar walls. The lodge was built with salvaged wood from uprooted trees, gathered after flooding. This makes Manu an eco-friendly lodge, surrounded by one of the most magnificent creations in nature: the Amazon rain forest.

Local Peruvian women selling medicinal plants

By M.J. Holliday
Five hundred years ago, the Inca empire flourished in South America. At its center was the Sacred Valley of the Incas, and the capital city of Cusco, Peru. The Inca were farmers, scientists, engineers and astronomers. When Fransisco Pizarro arrived with the Spanish armies in the sixteenth century, Inca medicine was so advanced that he sent his doctors home and used local methods instead.

On a trek through the Andes, we stayed in Cusco for two days. The modern name Cusco, or Cuzco, derives from the original Qosqo, meaning “navel.” Historically, Cusco is the birthplace of the Inca. Nomadic shepherds cultivated the land around the Urubamba River and settled the Sacred Valley around AD 1100.

Today the Sacred Valley provides maize, fruit, potatoes and vegetables, and medicinal plants. We found plenty of local produce and wares at the San Pedro market in Cusco, but the most striking attraction was the adjacent witches’ market, or Mercado de las Brujas.

We were fortunate to experience the witches’ market on a weekend. Vendors come from the hills and villages to sell their wares, and trade is lively.

If you’re looking for odd and unusual items, you will find them at the witches’ market. In the shadow of modern amenities, outdoor stalls fill the streets. Clay pots, baskets and makeshift shelves are crammed with herbs, medicines, animal carcasses, dried bats and toads, woven items, handmade charms and amulets, strange foods and potions..

Before going to the market, it’s a good idea to convert some of your money to the local currency. The nuevosol, or sol, is the basic monetary unit of Peru. Three soles equal about one American dollar.

Sixty percent of the population is Catholic, but the spirituality of Peru has strong ties to the earth. Rituals of magic and mysticism pass down by oral tradition, along with a deep understanding of the natural forces that shape the world. In the witches’ market, the vendors are shamans, witch doctors, herbalists and astrologers, all skilled in magical lore.

You can buy a potion or charm for almost anything, from curing a queasy stomach, to attracting money or spicing up your sex life. Dried llama fetuses bring good luck to homes and businesses and are often walled into the corners of buildings. A drink of liquidized frog will improve the memory, and dried armadillo will keep thieves away.

You can even pay a sorcerer to cast a spell on someone. Don’t be tempted to lay a curse on your annoying neighbor, though. Practitioners of ancient magic will use their craft only for good. They warn that magic, used for evil, will turn against the user.

The air is pungent with the aroma of herbs, live and dead animals, and home cooking. Some vendors brew potions on the spot, and others serve up local cuisine. A must-try delicacy is roast guinea pig, or cuy, usually served with a pepper in its mouth. Guinea pig is a traditional dish in South America. In the Cusco Cathedral hangs a painting of the Last Supper, with guinea pig as the main meal. Other local treats include alpaca steak; charqui, a naturally freeze-dried type of jerky; and yellow potato dishes of all kinds.

Fresh-squeezed juice is plentiful, and includes papaya, strawberry, kiwi, mango and cherimoya. Cherimoya is an evergreen, growing in the highlands of Ecuador and Peru. The fruit is oval, grapefruit-sized, with sweet white flesh. Mark Twain called it “the most delicious fruit known to men.” The cherimoya juice was truly refreshing and cost only a sol.

Another local delight is chicha, a brew similar to beer. Chicha can be sweet or strongly fermented, depending on the brewer. It’s made from corn or quinoa, a grain-like plant. If you’re not feeling adventurous, you can just get a coffee and sandwich, for about three soles.

The market is noisy with the shouts of haggling. No one expects to pay the asking price for an item. If you do, the vendor will have a good laugh at your expense. Always offer a much lower price, haggle and barter for every item, and you will walk away with a deal.

Most vendors speak Spanish, or the local Quechuan dialects. It helps to know basic phrases in Spanish. When taking photos, ask permission. Vendors and local farmers usually don’t mind, but it’s bad manners to take a picture without giving at least a sol.

Be prepared for the altitude. The mountain air has less oxygen than that of lower altitudes, so you might feel short of breath. If you develop a taste for chicha, don’t drink too much! High altitudes can cause the worst hangovers imaginable.

The witches’ market is a reminder of the age-old spirituality that pervades even the most modern lifestyle. In the Sacred Valley of the Incas, new technology arrives, but ancient magic and traditions still prevail.

Healthy Breakfast: Volunteer Program in Peru's Cachiccata Community

“One of traveler’s biggest responsibilities is to understand the local community, and one of the best ways to do this is to volunteer next to the people,” says Brian. “It’s hard to find meaningful experiences that could create a long-term change and also help our travelers understand the local culture.” So Adventure Life spent lots of time researching opportunities and interviewing people from the area, and have come up with some great add-ons for their Peruvian adventures. You can spend a day combating deforestation with a native tree-planting trip. Or fight illness by delivering hygiene kits packed with soap and toothbrushes to poor villages. Or help restore homes battered by the harsh Andes’ elements by working side-by-side on renovations with local families—and spending the night.

“We also offer a healthy breakfast program for students at the Cachiccata school in the Andes. Our travelers visit a market with a local guide to buy food and learn about what’s sold—rather than simply taking pictures. Then they cook and serve breakfast to students who may have walked more than an hour to get to school.”

Adventure Life is now working on volunteer extensions in Ecuador and Costa Rica. “We don’t want to pretend going on a trip will save the world, but these extensions are a unique way to say thanks to the community for the hospitality, leave a positive impact, and to increase your understanding of the place you’re visiting,” says Brian.

The Lost Girls is a group of three curious and intrepid women who decided to leave the daily-grind behind, and travel the world in search of adventure and inspiration. Their blog records their journeys and reflections. You can read more of their interview with Brian, by clicking here.

Machu Picchu may have been less of a city, than a spiritual destination for the Inca. New research argues the ceremonial path into the city was conceived as a replica of the path followed by the first Incas in cosmological myth.