Marathon runners take to the streets in Stanley, the capital of the Falkland Islands

The Stanley Marathon in the Falklands is in its fifth year

During my inaugural marathon last summer, I met a host of runners who travel the world, following marathons. An inspiring idea!

Now in its fifth year, the Stanley Marathon in the Falkland Islands is just a few months away. Officially the world’s southern most AIMS-certified marathon; unofficially the most wild and remote… The tourism board shares a few additional details:

The Stanley Marathon on the Falkland Islands is officially the world’s most southerly AIMS-certified marathon.

Stanley, the capital city of the Falkland Islands (total population of 3,00), has hosted the marathon for the past five years and will be held in 2010 on Sunday, March 14th.

At a latitude of 51° S, 57° W, the notoriously challenging route of varying gradients and strong winds starts in Stanley and then stretches out to the Island’s airport before doubling back.

Cheered on by Falkland natives or “Kelpers” international runners are also greeted by abundant wildlife dotted along the course including many different famed varieties of penguins which flock to the Islands to breed.

In 2003 Sir Ranulph Fiennes was the first person to ever run a marathon in the Falklands. Sir Ranulph visited the Islands as part of his take to complete seven marathons, on seven continents, in seven days. In 2008 the Stanley Marathon was again under the spotlight as blind UK runner Dave Heeley successfully completed the ‘Magnificent Seven’ with his sighted runner partner Malcom Carr.

In 2010 the top prize for the men’s open (and women’s) open is £1100 (approx CAD$1,832 USD$1,972). There is also a male (and female) relay team category.

For guidelines and entry information click here and contact Adventure Life 1-800-344-6118 (internationally 406-541-2677) for specific Stanley Marathon packages.

Remember, flights to and from the Falklands are only available on Saturdays — that means you have at least a week to explore and enjoy the Falkland Islands; a few days before and after your race.

Train to Machu Picchu in Peru

A reed boat -- Lake Titicaca, Peru

Lynessa will add Peru to her list of international adventures — a list that also includes Costa Rica, Nicaragua, Guatemala, Mexico, Scotland, UK, Spain and Canada.

The Nelsons promise me both a fantastic journal and surprising photographs of their journey. Can’t wait!

Oh, and a quick note to Lynessa — On the edge of Cucso’s Plaza de Armas is a frequented Gato Market. A very convenient market for the gringo and a good place to stock up on water or day-snacks or any little item you may have forgotten to include in your suitcase. As a special bonus — right outside the market is a lady who sells fresh, hand-made tamales. I understand she’s been in that same spot for years. The tamales? Fantastic. Forgive me, but I cannot remember her name.

Wishing you safe and happy travels, Lynessa and Matt!

The famous and beautiful blue ice of Antarctica

Curious gentoo penguins in Antarctica

I’m wearing snowpants for the first time since childhood, and I have on the same coat I wore several years ago while covering the Iditarod sled dog race across Alaska. This coat comes with an extra dense fleece lining that can be unzipped and removed, and despite living in Wisconsin, where winter temperatures routinely dip into the minus-30s, this is the first time I’ve ever needed to use the lining. The ship’s deck I’m standing on is wet with spray, and we are really rocking and rolling — the seas in the Drake Passage are the roughest in the world.

Yes, it’s a tad cold, but Antarctica offers some of the most spectacular scenery in the world, an unscripted nature show starring seals, whales, sea lions and a cast of approximately 400 gazillion penguins, as well as the pride that comes from looking at the bottom of a map and thinking, “Yeah. I’ve been there.”

Let’s discuss maps for a minute. We here in the States generally like maps with America in the middle. In Europe, fittingly, Europe is front and center. Africans and Asians and South Americans also like to occupy the most prominent spot on their maps, and Australians, well, honestly, I’m never quite sure what they’re up to. But unless you’re looking at a nautical chart or a very specific type of map, you’ll never find a global map with Antarctica in the starring role. Why? No one lives there. In fact, there is no such thing as an “Antarctican.” The only people who live in Antarctica are scientists and people who are paid to live in Antarctica. In 1959, the governments of the world decided not to fight over Antarctica. They declared it an internationally controlled center for scientific research and agreed that no one would ever “own” it. Several countries, among them Chile, Argentina and America, do maintain a year-round presence in Antarctica so that if vast oil fields or plutonium deposits are ever discovered there, they’ll be able to say, “Hey! We’ve had a presence in Antarctica for years!” But beyond researchers and these “professional Antarctica inhabitants,” the only other humans on the continent are tourists.

Tourists who make it to the Great White Continent become members of a very exclusive club. However, the number of club members is increasing — the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators says visits rose from 6,700 in the 1992-93 season to 45,213 in 2008-09.

Of the lucky few who do visit Antarctica, the vast majority do so on cruise ships, sleeping on board and taking as many shore excursions as the weather and the seas allow. The ship that brought me to Antarctica is a smaller ship, the Antarctic Dream. There are several cruise lines that sail to Antarctica — from small to very large (think floating resort)—depending on your preference. Small ships can bring you in a bit closer to the action and offer a more intimate setting, while larger ships provide more stability for rugged waters and greater onboard amenities.

Upon arrival to Antarctica you spend your days “island hopping” — sailing from site to site and making landings via Zodiac on icebergs, in stunning bays and on black, sandy beaches. While sailing from place to place is thrilling — you’ll see whales, seals, sea lions, penguins and immense blue-glowing icebergs — the shore excursions, of course, are the highlights of any trip.

Antarctica is a land of extremes — technically a desert. It’s Earth’s coldest, driest, highest and windiest place, and the first landing we made, on the Island of Barrientos, presented us with the complete package. To our right loomed a stark and craggy rock formation bedecked with thousands of juvenile gentoo penguins. To our left lay a 40-foot-long dried out whale skeleton, a couple big chunks of iceberg, and a fur seal who lolled his head over to one side and regarded us quizzically. For many of us, myself included, this was the big moment. It was official. I had been to Antarctica.

There is a type of ice all over Antarctica called blue ice. Blue ice is formed at the very deepest layers of icebergs and glaciers when, over millions of years, the oxygen within the ice is forced out by the weight of the material on top. In small chunks this incredibly dense ice is perfectly clear — so clear that once you see it, you realize that you’ve never seen clear ice before — and in large chunks it absorbs light at the red end of the spectrum and appears to glow blue, as if from some inner source of illumination.

I sat down on a chunk of this blue ice and looked around me. The seas in the bay were perfectly still, and off in the distance, immense, blindingly white mountains clamored skyward. Overhead, albatross and giant petrels soared in lazy circles, but other than the gentle movements of their wings, the world was frozen and utterly silent. I thought about all the maps I’d be able to point to and say, “I’ve been there,” when suddenly I felt something tugging gently on the cuff of my right pants leg. Maintaining my serenity, I looked down and saw a fat little penguin climbing onto my boot. I didn’t move a muscle. Egged on by a few of his friends, the brave little guy grabbed a snatch of fabric in his beak and hauled himself up to look at me. His feathers were sleek and glossy, his eyes sharp and penetrating. We spent several minutes checking each other out, then he hopped off and waddled back over to rejoin his friends.

I had many magical moments in Antarctica: climbing a snowy mountain on Deception Island; watching building-sized chunks of glacier break off and fall into the sea with a crack like cannon fire; swimming in the Southern Ocean at the foot of an active volcano, where the subterranean lava heats the water to near-pleasant temperatures.

But of all the wonderful moments I had, my favorite was the first one: When I initially and officially set foot on the continent, and a resident penguin jumped on my leg to say, “Welcome.”

Argentina views like this make the reciprocity fee well worth it!

This fee only applies to citizens of the United States, Canada, and Australia. Each travelers has to pay the following amount:

United States: $131
Canada: $70
Australia: $100

This can be paid in U.S. Dollars, Argentine Pesos, travelers checks, or credit card. The payment of this fee is NOT for a visa, as travelers from the United States, Canada, and Australia do not need a visa if on vacation. You can see more information by going to the Argentine Ministry of Interior’s site.

For additional requirements for travel to Argentina visit the US Department of State’s website.

Batting at the pinata

Letter and picture from one the children who enjoyed the holiday celebration

On November 28, 2009 Costa Rica Reps based in San Jose, Costa Rica teamed up with Adventure Life Journeys based in Missoula, Montana to host a holiday party for Costa Rican schoolchildren. Located in the Turrubares Mountains, Galan and Lanas are small isolated communities on an old travel route connecting San Jose (the capital of Costa Rica) through rural mountainous jungle terrain to Costa Rica’s Pacific Coast.

Galan school was represented by three students and Lanas school was represented by nine students. The children come from families with very limited resources and the rural location makes it especially difficult to access decent educational opportunities. For example, some children walk many miles in order to get to and from school every day.

The objective of the activity was to share a full day of fun and happiness for these children as a reward for the extra-ordinary efforts they take to be properly educated. The day began with a brief introduction about both Costa Rica Reps and Adventure life. Children were then told about tourism activities in general and specifically about eco-tourism, sometimes also referred to as sustainable tourism. Emphasis was placed on the importance of protecting and keeping the environment clean. By way of specific example students were asked to assist in cleaning up the area as the party came to an end.

Throughout the day Cristy from Costa Rica Reps led the children in team building activities and traditional games to keep them actively engaged. Prizes were given for each game. At noon lunch was served including hot dogs, snacks and sodas. It should be noted that for a rural Costa Rican child a hot dog is quite a novelty! For dessert the children enjoyed ice cream and cake. Each child also received a bag filled with an apple, a pear, juice, cookies and candies.

Staff member gave a pre-selected child a personalized gift. The look on some of these childrens’ faces was priceless! The event ended with a lively traditional Central American game where each child took turns swinging a stick at a classic piñata. One final blow and piles of candy rained down on the deliriously happy children as they scampered about collecting the treats!

The event was truly a great success for all in attendance for the following reasons: The children received a fun and wonder filled day of games, a nice meal, lots of treats and a special gift. Their parents were able to see laughter in their childrens’ faces and could clearly sense the love in the hearts of the staff at Costa Rica Reps. The staff were able to actively participate in that special gift of giving. Even the onlookers wore painted smiles for the entire day. It was a day of special warmth for the children that only a human heart can give.

This event is still fresh on the minds of the staff and has provided motivation to make this an annual tradition. Perhaps next year’s event will include nearby communities and we hope activities like this holiday gathering will provide opportunities to educate children and their parents as to the positive benefits tourism can bring to remote places.

For 2010 Costa Rica Reps hopes to incorporate a reward system throughout the days events whereby students will begin the day by planting trees and collecting litter around their homes and schools. Perhaps there could be a “trash art” contest to see who can make the most creative piece of art out of the trash collected. Now all we need is a grand prize for the winner!

A special thanks to Adventure Life Journeys for allowing Costa Rica Reps to collaborate on this inspiring initiative.

Thank you, our friends in Costa Rica. Truly our pleasure.

Adelie penguins jumping into sea

November 26
Woke to poor visibility and the 5:30am announcement that helicopter flights to Snow Hill were delayed.  An hour went by and another announcement came regarding further weather delay.  Then, another announcement later in the morning that we had missed our daylight window.

No worries, however, as we backed out of the ice and headed over to Paulette Island for our first landing via zodiac. Thousands of Adeli penguins covered the island.  Walking along the frozen beach, I watched them swimming like dolphins and leaping out of the water and onto icebergs, then waddling back to the edge and diving in again.  They genuinely seemed to be playing, although I suspect they were fishing.

I also saw two Weddell Seals – the first from this trip.

In the evening, the kitchen treats us all to an improvised Thanksgiving Day dinner.  Turkey, stuffing of sorts, cranberries, and good wine and conversation makes for a wonderful and Thanks-filled day.

November 27
Today’s plan – clear weather, cruise back to Snow Hill.  Foul weather, head to Brown Bluff.  Poor weather has us dodging icebergs to arrive at our anchorage for another land visit.  Unfortunately, the Khlebnikov has trouble getting the anchor to hold and the wind is blowing so hard that it’s not safe to board the zodiacs.  Thus, we head to plan B for the afternoon – a visit to Devil Island.  The afternoon is glorious and again thousands of Adelie penguins treat us to their antics.  Several of the most adventurous head up two different ridge lines for spectacular views of mountains, sea, and ice on all sides.

Khlebnikov cuts through the ice

November 28
5:30 am wake up call:  white out conditions prevail with 30 knot winds.  No Snow Hill again this morning.  Some passengers were a bit disappointed, but I’m so delighted to just be in Antarctica.  I take the bad weather news as just part of the challenge and experience of visiting such an inaccessible place.  Fingers are still crossed for better weather later this morning.  Otherwise, I’m sure we’ll pull out and find another site to visit.

Leaving Ushuaia for Antarctica

Last night, in preparation for departure, Douglas Allan gave a fantastic presentation about his film making career. He’s one of the camera men responsible for SEVERAL of the Planet Earth episodes. We have several incredible people on board and I’m looking forward to all the presentations.

My next entry will be emailed by satellite connection from the Drake Passage. Wish me luck with the weather!

Views of the countryside from Caracol ruins in Belize

Ancient maya pottery in Belize's ATM cave

Tikal ruins rising out the jungle

Maya ruins at Xunantunich in Belize

Travel to breathtakingly beautiful Belize must include excursions to the awe-inspiring stone temples and palaces of the ancient Maya civilization. The architecture of this highly advanced civilization remains stunning, adding another spectacular facet to the beauty and culture of Belize. The Maya flourished in Belize from 250 to 900 AD, the Golden Age, during which this ancient civilization attained incredible artistic and architectural heights. The Mayan Kings or holy lords, played an ancient game of out do your neighbor, with rivals building majestic palaces and temples competing in grandeur with the lush green canopy of the Belize rainforest. Not to be out done, each lord filled his castle with intricate ceramic murals, sculptures, pottery and jewelry. Ancient history comes alive with a visit to these magnificent Maya ruins.

Caracol – Mayan true name -Three Hill Water
Situated in the highlands south of San Ignacio and accessible via road, Caracol is known as the supreme Maya city. This metropolis is one of the largest in the Maya world, thought to be the home of 150,000 people. Water was supplied by man-made reservoirs. Rising a spectacular 140 feet the most impressive pyramid, is the Canaa, which is the tallest ancient structure in all of Belize. Extensive excavation beginning in 1985 uncovered a round intricately carved altar stone which tells the story of a battle and ultimate victory over the powerful Tikal.

Lamanai -Ancient Mayan name, Submerged Crocodile
Definitely check out this ruin by a taking a spectacular boat ride up the New River. Approximately 70 structures have been excavated, although 700 have been mapped. The most striking structure is the “Temple of the Jaguar” which has two jaguar masks bordering the stone stairway. This ancient ruin is unique in that successive generations of Mayan people built progressively upon the previous structures rather than destroy and rebuild. The Mask Temple, which sports a thirteen foot stone mask of an ancient holy lord and the High Temple, which offers a stunning view from its peak are truly impressive. Also an added incentive, travel along the New River will encompass a bird sanctuary.

Xunantunich- Mayan translation, Stone Woman
Travel to this Mayan ruin can be an adventure. Beginning in San Ignacio take the Benque Viejo road to the tiny village of San Jose Succotz. Next a hand-cranked ferry will transport vehicles across the Mopan River. Then it’s one mile up hill to this incredible site. El Castillo is the largest pyramid on this site. It rises 130 feet and provides an amazing view of Belize and even Guatemala. Be sure to notice this pyramid’s intricate stucco frieze.

Actun Tunichil Muknal
Looking for even more of an adventure, consider visiting ATM, one of three caves accessible only by licensed guides who conduct single day or mullti-day stays. There is no vehicular access to this site so be prepared for a forty-five minute hike into the jungle. The cave can be found in the Tapir Mountain Nature Reserve and offers a wet welcome as the entrance is flooded with water. This archaeological site reveals skeletons, ceramics and stoneware. “The Crystal Maiden” is the most well known of the human remains. Natural processes of the cave make the bones of this teenage girl sparkle. Several of these types of skeletons can be seen in the main chamber. The trek through the caves will take 4-6 hours, so plan accordingly.

Tikal
Just across the boarder, Guatemala’s Tikal consists of 222 square miles of ancient Mayan ruins amid the lush tropical jungle. Many consider it one of the most impressive cultural reserves in the world. Five temples peek out of the forest canopy. The tallest is the “Temple of the Two Headed Snake.” The Grand Plaza is considered the most striking in all of Tikal. The plaza is surrounded by sculptured altars, stelae, ceremonial buildings, residential palaces and even a ball court. Tikal requires at least two full days to thoroughly explore; it is a jaw-dropping site.

Polar Icebreaker, Kapitan Khlebnikov by Henny Miltenburg

Accommodating only 112-passengers on only a handful of remaining expeditions, now is the time to bid a found farewell to this legendary ship. Adventure Life’s company president and founder, Brian Morgan, will be bidding his own personal adieu to the Kapitan; he is set to join the November 15, 2009, 22-day Emperors and Kings departure. This ultimate penguin expedition explores the habitats of eight different species of penguin.