Brian Takes an Antarctica Expedition

November 10, 2009 – 12:38 pm

Polar Icebreaker, Kapitan Khlebnikov by Henny Miltenburg

Polar Icebreaker, Kapitan Khlebnikov by Henny Miltenburg


Mist from volcanic caldera

Mist from volcanic caldera


Antarctica, the Great White Continent, a land so distant from everyday life, so filled with myth, heroes, adventure, and tragedy that even today a journey to the mere edge of this continent is a expedition into the unknown. After ten years of working in the adventure travel industry and bringing thousands of friends, family and clients to the far edges of Latin America – to such sites as Bolivia’s Salt Desert, Huarani tribal territory, Belize’s subterranean caves, and more – the edges of Latin America weren’t so sharp and unknown to me anymore. I decided it was time to journey to the edges of my known world once again, and Antarctica would provide that first edge.

So, I asked Jonathan Brunger, Adventure Life’s resident Antarctica expert, “what is the most amazing Antarctica trip we offer? I want to do it.” He answered without thinking – the Kapitan Khlebnikov’s Snow Hill trip. The Khlebnikov is the last ice breaker still working in the tourism industry – the few others in the world are too busy exploring the arctic for oil and staking national claims for Russia, Canada, the USA and others. The Khlebnikov’s glory days of taking visitors to Antarctica are numbered too with the recent announcement that 2012 will be its last voyage open to travelers.

Ice-breaker travel is completely different than visiting on an ice-strengthened ship. Someone recently described the difference between an ice-breaker and an ice-strengthened ship as the difference between a MAC truck and a pickup – completely different technology, in addition to the shear size and strength difference! Less than two weeks ago I heard a report that the ship was stuck, yes stuck, in the ice for 3 days! It’s not a Shackleton story, but being aboard one of the world’s strongest ships and being stuck in the ice is about as close as one can get in today’s modern age. More on the Khlebnikov

My expedition to Antarctica is a 20 day voyage, including such landings as South Georgia, South Shetlands, Snow Hill Island, South Orkneys, and the Falklands. I’ll witness many species of penguins, elephant seals, whales, albatrosses, fantastic glaciers and icebergs, and more. But what am I looking forward to most? We’ll be crossing the Drake Passage, known for having the most severe weather on the planet. The ships description of this passage says, “…do not be disappointed if this crossing of the Drake Passage is smooth sailing.” What!? When I read this, I thought, oh, they are speaking directly to me! If we don’t get at least one storm with 60 foot waves, I probably will be disappointed. …although, I imagine that there will be many passengers aboard that will be happy with smooth seas.

I’m also looking forward to the complete disconnect from my very connected and often busy world. With only satellite phone/email, I’ll be limiting my connection to a maximum of one daily outbound email during that 20 days. I’ve told the Adventure Life office to not let the building burn down! Seriously, I’m so grateful to the incredible team at Adventure Life. Each one is super capable and the years of experience and talent they bring to their jobs is what is enabling me to take this trip. Thanks to you guys!

My next correspondence will be from Ushuaia, Argentina in 5 days, just before boarding the Khlebnikov. Please post any questions before then, and I’ll try to respond accordingly. Saludos!

PS Check out Laurie Allread’s journal and photo album from this same trip last year!

By Brian Morgan | Posted in Adventure Travel Company, Antarctica Cruises, Brian in Antarctica, Small Ship Cruises, Travel Journal, Travel Product | Tagged , , , , | Leave a Comment

Maya Ruins of Belize

November 5, 2009 – 2:42 pm

Views of the countryside from Caracol ruins in Belize

Views of the countryside from Caracol ruins in Belize


Ancient maya pottery in Belize's ATM cave

Ancient maya pottery in Belize's ATM cave


Tikal ruins rising out the jungle

Tikal ruins rising out the jungle


Maya ruins at Xunantunich in Belize

Maya ruins at Xunantunich in Belize


The following post is written by Belize traveler, Gail Gross. Thanks for the contribution, Gail!

Travel to breathtakingly beautiful Belize must include excursions to the awe-inspiring stone temples and palaces of the ancient Maya civilization. The architecture of this highly advanced civilization remains stunning, adding another spectacular facet to the beauty and culture of Belize. The Maya flourished in Belize from 250 to 900 AD, the Golden Age, during which this ancient civilization attained incredible artistic and architectural heights. The Mayan Kings or holy lords, played an ancient game of out do your neighbor, with rivals building majestic palaces and temples competing in grandeur with the lush green canopy of the Belize rainforest. Not to be out done, each lord filled his castle with intricate ceramic murals, sculptures, pottery and jewelry. Ancient history comes alive with a visit to these magnificent Maya ruins.

Caracol – Mayan true name -Three Hill Water
Situated in the highlands south of San Ignacio and accessible via road, Caracol is known as the supreme Maya city. This metropolis is one of the largest in the Maya world, thought to be the home of 150,000 people. Water was supplied by man-made reservoirs. Rising a spectacular 140 feet the most impressive pyramid, is the Canaa, which is the tallest ancient structure in all of Belize. Extensive excavation beginning in 1985 uncovered a round intricately carved altar stone which tells the story of a battle and ultimate victory over the powerful Tikal.

Lamanai -Ancient Mayan name, Submerged Crocodile
Definitely check out this ruin by a taking a spectacular boat ride up the New River. Approximately 70 structures have been excavated, although 700 have been mapped. The most striking structure is the “Temple of the Jaguar” which has two jaguar masks bordering the stone stairway. This ancient ruin is unique in that successive generations of Mayan people built progressively upon the previous structures rather than destroy and rebuild. The Mask Temple, which sports a thirteen foot stone mask of an ancient holy lord and the High Temple, which offers a stunning view from its peak are truly impressive. Also an added incentive, travel along the New River will encompass a bird sanctuary.

Xunantunich- Mayan translation, Stone Woman
Travel to this Mayan ruin can be an adventure. Beginning in San Ignacio take the Benque Viejo road to the tiny village of San Jose Succotz. Next a hand-cranked ferry will transport vehicles across the Mopan River. Then it’s one mile up hill to this incredible site. El Castillo is the largest pyramid on this site. It rises 130 feet and provides an amazing view of Belize and even Guatemala. Be sure to notice this pyramid’s intricate stucco frieze.

Actun Tunichil Muknal
Looking for even more of an adventure, consider visiting ATM, one of three caves accessible only by licensed guides who conduct single day or mullti-day stays. There is no vehicular access to this site so be prepared for a forty-five minute hike into the jungle. The cave can be found in the Tapir Mountain Nature Reserve and offers a wet welcome as the entrance is flooded with water. This archaeological site reveals skeletons, ceramics and stoneware. “The Crystal Maiden” is the most well known of the human remains. Natural processes of the cave make the bones of this teenage girl sparkle. Several of these types of skeletons can be seen in the main chamber. The trek through the caves will take 4-6 hours, so plan accordingly.

Tikal
Just across the boarder, Guatemala’s Tikal consists of 222 square miles of ancient Mayan ruins amid the lush tropical jungle. Many consider it one of the most impressive cultural reserves in the world. Five temples peek out of the forest canopy. The tallest is the “Temple of the Two Headed Snake.” The Grand Plaza is considered the most striking in all of Tikal. The plaza is surrounded by sculptured altars, stelae, ceremonial buildings, residential palaces and even a ball court. Tikal requires at least two full days to thoroughly explore; it is a jaw-dropping site.

By Beth Conway | Posted in 1, Archaeological Site, Belize tours, Traditional Cultures | Tagged , , , , | Leave a Comment

Polar Icebreaker, Kapitan Khlebnikov, to Retire

October 29, 2009 – 12:16 pm

Polar Icebreaker, Kapitan Khlebnikov by Henny Miltenburg

Polar Icebreaker, Kapitan Khlebnikov by Henny Miltenburg


That’s right — one of the only passenger icebreakers in operation — the Kapitan Khelbnikov — has announced it will end its career as an expedition vessel in March 2012. The Kapitan Khelbnikov was built in Finland in 1981, and was originally designed for the rigors of northern Siberia. The ship has sailed to extremely remote corners of the globe with adventurous travelers since 1992. No other expedition vessel has navigated more polar waters than the Kapitan. It was the first ship ever to circumnavigate Antarctica with passengers in 1996-97. This vessel has captured the spirit of many adventurous explorers — she will definitely be missed by Adventure Lifers.

Accommodating only 112-passengers on only a handful of remaining expeditions, now is the time to bid a found farewell to this legendary ship. Adventure Life’s company president and founder, Brian Morgan, will be bidding his own personal adieu to the Kapitan; he is set to join the November 15, 2009, 22-day Emperors and Kings departure. This ultimate penguin expedition explores the habitats of eight different species of penguin.

By Beth Conway | Posted in 1, Antarctica Cruises, Travel Product | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a Comment

The Kuna People of the San Blas Islands

October 23, 2009 – 1:32 pm
Kuna woman with molas - compliments of Sapibenga lodge

Kuna woman with molas - compliments of Sapibenga lodge

The following article was written by Panama traveler M. Leonard. Thanks for the contribution!

In the Caribbean Sea, a few miles off the east coast of mainland Panama, lies the San Blas Archipelago, a series of exquisite tropical islands. The Archipelago consists of 360 low-lying islands, including sixty that are homeland to the indigenous and traditional, Kuna people.

The Kuna (also Cuna) Indians of Panama are a fascinating tribal society. In spite of historical pressure to become part of Panama and westernize their culture, they have managed to avoid the stress, bustle and complexities of their neighbors and remained content living much the same way their ancestors did.

Thought to be descendants of the Carib Indians, they lived initially throughout Panama and Columbia. When Panama broke away from Columbia, the Kuna resisted. The Panamanian government and police attempted to control the insurrection, often with violence. Eventually the Kuna staged a revolt and declared their independence and migrated to the coast and to the islands of the San Blas Archipelago. Officially, the islands are part of Panama, but are administered as a “country within a country,” and lead by the Kuna themselves. Thus, the islands lying within San Blas province are rich in tradition, following their own customs, laws, and legislation enabling them to preserve their natural environment and heritage.

Each island has its own chief, called a Sahila, who is elected for life. There are positions of elders who assist the chief in governing matters. At the same time the Kuna Yala area and its inhabitants have two representatives in the Panamanian legislature and they vote in general elections. Wary of the pressure to Westernize, the Kuna have restricted visitors to the area until recently. Some communities have introduced eco-tourism to their islands, and by limiting and regulating have been successful in maintaining a balance between western influences and their traditional culture.

They have their own language called Tule, which is also what the Kunas call themselves. Spanish is a secondary language for many. Their customs and traditions have been passed to the children in song and dance. Until recently the Tule language was unwritten.

The Kuna are a matriarchal society. They marry young, usually in mid-teens. The groom moves into the home of his wife’s parents. He may spend several years as an apprentice to his father-in-law. Divorce is rare.

As an agricultural society, they live simply and interact closely with nature. They emphasize respect for the land and believe one should maintain a deep, intimate relationship with it. To them, “All things come from Mother Earth. Nothing exists that is more necessary than she is.” The men build and maintain the homes which are simple, thatch-roofed huts. Few on the more remote islands have electricity or running water. The primary crops are plantain, bananas, avocados, corn, rice and harvested coconuts. They add to their diet by catching fish. Men will also weave baskets, carve utensils and sew their own clothing. The women are responsible for bringing water from the mainland rivers, washing and cleaning. They sew the clothes for the females.

It is the women’s clothes and dress that is the primary attraction for the restricted eco-tourism allowed on the islands. The ladies wear spectacularly colorful clothes, especially their blouses call molas. Mola is actually the name for the elaborate, colorful panels, which make up the garments. These panels are intricate embroidered pictures done in an applique manner. In addition to the beautiful molas, the women also wear gold nose rings, paint their faces with rouge made from achiote seeds and paint a line down their nose. They complete their dress with bright colored beaded bands on their arms and legs and lovely head scarves. It is thought that the bright colors repel evil spirits. In comparison to the women the men dress plainly in understated shirts, jeans or shorts.

The chief religion is animism. They believe the Creator God is far away and that evil spirits called poni cause disease and illness. In addition to bright clothing, they carry small dolls carved from balsa wood, called nuchus, to protect them from the poni.

The breathtaking scenery and unique indigenous culture encompassing the San Blas Archipelago make it a truly unique place. The Kuna have stood up for their beliefs, enabling them to live the life that they believe is best for them. The Kuna and their islands are undoubtedly vibrant, colorful, culturally rich and unforgettably hospitable.

By Beth Conway | Posted in 1, Green Travel, Panama, Traditional Cultures | Tagged , , , , , , | Leave a Comment

Share Your Travels. Win a Trip.

October 22, 2009 – 2:15 pm

Win a Patagonia Wildlife Safari trip: EcoCamps Suite Domes

Win a Patagonia Wildlife Safari trip: EcoCamp's Suite Domes


Win a Galapagos trip onboard the Eric, Letty, Flamingo

Win a Galapagos trip onboard the Eric, Letty, Flamingo


Back by popular demand… I am pleased to announce our new Trip Journal, and Trip Video contest. Submit your best entries for a chance to win a trip for two with Adventure Life! Contest is open to all Adventure Life alumni. I’ll get right to the good stuff … the prizes.

WHAT YOU WILL WIN!

Best Trip Journal: Win a trip for two to EcoCamp’s luxury suite domes in remote Torres del Paine National Park, combined with an expedition cruise on board the Mare Australis for a complete Patagonia adventure! Click here for details.

Trip Video Drawing: Win a 10-day Galapagos adventure for two on board the Eric, Letty, Flamingo! Click here for details.

Send us your best travel videos, and start creating your Online Trip Journal today — click here to get started.

THAT’S TWO CHANCES TO WIN!

Past Winners
Take inspiration from some of the past winners. click here.

Or read some of the trip journals already online.

You may even recognize a few names and faces from the Adventure Life staff… Just like you, we’re travelers who love to share our experiences with others — no matter how embarrassing the photos.

By Beth Conway | Posted in 1, Galapagos Cruises, Patagonia tours, Travel Journal, Uncatagorized | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a Comment

Last-Minute Steal: 2-for-1 Belize!

October 12, 2009 – 3:10 pm

Snorkeling during a Turneffe Atoll Adventure

Snorkeling during a Turneffe Atoll Adventure


Boasting the largest barrier reef in the Western Hemisphere, Belize offers some of the best diving and snorkeling in the world. This 8-day Belize tour is based from Turneffe Flats Resort on Turneffe Atoll. The Turneffe Atoll is one of only three coral atolls in the Caribbean. Formation of these coral atolls is a result of years of coral buildup rather than by volcanic activity – the more common mechanism of atoll formation. The entire Atoll is surrounded by a fringe coral reef with waters inside the reef varying from less than a foot deep to 30 feet in depth. Ocean depths around the atoll are thought to reach 9000 feet. In addition world-class snorkeling, this trip also includes dolphin watching, kayaking, Belize cooking class and more! 2-for-1 diving packages are also available at Turneffe Atoll. No pressure, but this last-minute steal is only available on select October and November departures and filling up. So grab your passport, mask and fins and give us a call … now.

By Beth Conway | Posted in 1, Belize tours, Snorkeling trips, Travel general, discounts | Tagged , , , , , , , , | Leave a Comment

Family Trip: Leatherback Turtles at Pacuare Reserve

September 18, 2009 – 3:14 pm

Leatherback nest found! The Lovato family assists scientists on their turtle patrols at the Pacurare Reserve

Leatherback nest found! The Lovato family assists scientists on their turtle patrols at the Pacurare Reserve


The Pacuare is located between Costa Rica’s coastal lowlands and the country’s highest mountain range. Besides being home to thousands of species of birds, insets, reptiles and mammals, Pacuare is home to Costa Rica’s most important nesting ground for leatherback turtles. On our Turtles and Rainforest trip, our travelers have the unique opportunity to visit the Pacuare Reserve and stay at an active scientific research station, which doubles as lodging for visitors.

While at the Pacuare Reserve, travelers are invited to assist the biologists in their turtle patrols. The patrols vary by season. During nesting season, it is your job to walk the beach looking for a leatherbacks laying eggs. When you find one, you’ll wait with the researcher until the turtle is done laying eggs. Then, you’ll have the chance to approach the turtle and assist in measuring and tagging it before the giant leatherback returns to the sea. Turtle egg poachers are a major threat to the survival of leatherbacks, so your next job is to carefully dig up the eggs and rebury them in another location so poachers cannot find the nest.

The Lovato family shares a little of their time at the Pacuare Reserve, and their turtle patrols when they worked hands-on with researchers as they continue to protect, monitor and study the intriguing turtles that return to this region each year to lay their eggs.

About an hour after we got there, we were asked to accompany two volunteers on an excavation. This is where they dig up a nest that has already hatched and count the eggs in categories (hatched, and not hatched but: fertilized, not fertilized, and some more fine categories). The digging is done by hand, scooping out sand, the eggs and anything else you find down there: crabs, maggots, and turtles that haven’t yet made it out of the nest. Some of them are no longer alive, but this day we found six live healthy babies! They are set on the sand to perk up and make their way out to sea. The kids were beside themselves with excitement as each little one crawled across the beach. One with a bent shell they nicknamed Peanut. Another baby had a slightly bent flipper. Hope the little guy or girl made it once they started swimming! I was up to my armpits in sand digging, and the kids helped with the digging, and counting once all the babies made it to the ocean. What a way to start our visit!

Click here to read more.

If you had a chance to pick-up the May 2009 issue of National Geographic, there is a great article — “Ancient Mariner” — that addresses the history and future of the leatherback turtles (which can easy reach 2,000 pounds, mind you!) that have endured on the planet for 100 million years. Issues, such as climate, population, pollution and predators, plague these endangered marine giants. But, as Tim Appenzeller in the National Geographic reports, because of their adaptable and resilient nature, some regions have actually seen their leatherback populations increase. A great read, with great pictures.

By Beth Conway | Posted in 1, Costa Rica Tours, Family Travel, Green Travel, Natural Environment, Travel Journal, wildlife | Tagged , , , , , , , , | Leave a Comment

Journal Contest Winners Announced!

September 8, 2009 – 2:09 pm

Blue footed boobies - photo by Wayne Ng

Blue footed boobies - photo by Wayne Ng


Giant tortoise - by Wayne Ng

Giant tortoise - by Wayne Ng


Winner of our best journal contest wins voyage to Antarctica on the Antarctic Dream

Winner of our best journal contest wins voyage to Antarctica on the Antarctic Dream


Adelies entering the water at Gourdin Island - photo by Les Moore

Adelies entering the water at Gourdin Island - photo by Les Moore


Blue ice at Cuverville Island - by Les Moore

Blue ice at Cuverville Island - by Les Moore


Prize for journal drawing: Alaska cruise with our partners Cruise West

Prize for journal drawing: Alaska cruise with our partners Cruise West


Adventure Life’s first journal contest has come to a close. From the Pacuare Turtle Reserve in Costa Rica, to kayaking in the remote Amazon Basin, the submissions are terrific — competition was tough and selecting our winners was no easy task.

Winner of our Best Journal contest is Wayne Ng for his entry, Epiphanies in Ecuador and the Galapagos. Wayne writes:

…During lunch on the ship, several of the crew race into the dining area: ballenos, they exclaim–humpbacks a mile off the stern. When the crew still reacts with awe to wildlife, it tells you how special this place is. Who says you have to be young to be a kid? Who says age tempers the adrenal glands? Everyone on board lines the stern side, grinning as if they just learned Santa Claus was real.

We motor to Punta Suarez and hit the booby trail. The sea lions now have to share the stage with hundreds of marine iguanas basking in the sun on rocks, blue footed boobies wobbling about their nests, giant albatross’ putting on an air show when not courting their lifelong partner to be – all within inches of us. It is a rich and diverse island whose scenery alone would merit visitation. We wonder if the trip had already climaxed, as we can’t imagine a better day. My sister-in-law, Chantel, snorkels for the first time and though we see no sea lions in the water, she spies a manta ray and is totally hooked…

Take a look at his entire adventure by clicking here.

Wayne receives an Antarctica adventure on board the Expedition Ship, Antarctic Dream. This 78 person capacity expedition cruise ship is celebrated for its longtime service in the Chilean Navy. Refurbished in 2005, the ship now takes travelers to remote South Shetland Islands and the Antarctic Peninsula — incredible regions that have beckoned the world’s explorers for centuries.

Winners of our journal drawing are Les Moore and Sabine Westland. Les and Sabine’s Antarctica journal, Antarctic Cruise aboard MS Andrea was randomly selected from the completed collection of our online journals.

…As we woke, the ship arrived at Deception Island, where we landed at Whalers Bay. This is the site of an old Norwegian/Chilean whaling station that ceased operation in 1931. The British destroyed the station’s fuel tanks and equipment during WWII to prevent German ships from using it as a base. After the war it functioned as a British research station until a volcanic eruption in 1967 led to it being abandoned.

Some volcanic activity continues – with steam rising off warm water, and some passengers actually swam at Pendulum Cove.

We then left Deception Island and set off across the Bransfield Strait for Trinity Island. On the way a pair of humpback whales accompanied us, swimming beside the ship for 10 or 15 minutes, before surging ahead of us…

To read their entire journal, click here.

Les and Sabine have won an Alaska cruise for two with our partners Cruise West. Cruise West’s vessels range is size from 78 to 138 passengers. They have an experienced crew and flexible schedules to offer the best chances of spotting rare Alaskan Wildlife. The size and skill of the vessels can take travelers in arm’s-length reach of an icy glacier, or into the mist of a waterfall at Prince William Sound.

We would like to congratulate everyone on their wonderful journals, and extend a great big thank you for sharing your travels!

About the Journals
To help inspire your next great trip, I invite you to take a look at our Travel Journal Collection, and post your own adventures. In addition to great travel yarns, and fantastic pictures, by utilizing the services of Google-Maps you can literally pin-point your trip, and give friends and family a clear image of exactly where and when you hiked the Inca Trail, or explored the shores of Antarctica, or rafted Chile’s exhilarating Futaleufu!

We’re are working on a contest for the upcoming season, so keep your photos, videos and journals handy. I’ll keep you posted.

About the Contest
Last year, we launched a new Online Travel Journal feature on our website that invites travelers to share their travel stories, photographs, map itineraries and more!

The first 100 Adventure Life travelers to post a trip journal were entered into a drawing for an Alaskan Expedition Cruise for two with our partners Cruise West.

And there was contest for the Best trip journal – judged by a handful of Adventure Life staff. The prize is an Antarctica adventure on board the Expedition Ship, Antarctic Dream.

Deadline for this contest was July 31, 2009.

By Beth Conway | Posted in 1, Adventure Travel Company, Antarctica Cruises, Awards, Galapagos Cruises, Small Ship Cruises, Travel Journal | Tagged , , , , , , , , | Leave a Comment

Jen Gets SCUBA Certified

September 2, 2009 – 11:34 am

When shes not earning her SCUBA certification, shes hanging out next to volcanoes in Guatemala

When she's not earning her SCUBA certification, Jen's hanging out next to volcanoes in Guatemala


Adventure Life’s own Jennifer Barile is earning her SCUBA certification. One of our incredible Trip Coordinators, Jen is adding SCUBA to her list of outdoor hobbies that include rock and ice-climbing, trekking, camping and cross-country skiing. Adventure Life supplies our full-time employees with funding for continuing education opportunities. In the past, staff members have taken advantage of this perk to pursue interests as varied as our personalities. This includes Spanish classes, web development, kayaking lessons, Latin America economy courses, accounting … and now SCUBA classes. Jen’s SCUBA certification incorporates classroom work with time in the pool. The class finishes with an open-water in Montana’s Flathead Lake in the first weekend of October. Brrrr – I’ve been in Flathead in October and it’s … brisk. Wetsuits are recommended. Jen hopes to use her new certification exploring Belize’s Barrier Reef as soon as humanly possible. And if I ask nicely, she might invite me to join her.

By Beth Conway | Posted in 1, Adventure Travel Company, Travel general, Uncatagorized | Tagged , , , , , , | Leave a Comment

Actun Tunichil Muknal: Journey to the Maya Underworld

August 24, 2009 – 11:58 am

Traveler and guide cross a river while hiking to Actun Tunichil Muknal

Traveler and guide cross a river while hiking to Actun Tunichil Muknal


Ancient Maya pottery in the Actun Tunichil cave

Ancient Maya pottery in the Actun Tunichil cave


One of natures incredible formations in the ATM cave

One of nature's incredible formations in the ATM cave


Headlights on helmets light the way through the ATM cave to the Cathedral

Headlights on helmets light the way through the ATM cave to the Cathedral


Skull from one of the skeletons found in The Cathedral

Skull from one of the skeletons found in The Cathedral


Traveler, Elizabeth Coughlan, shares some of her experiences exploring the Actun Tunichil Muknal (or ATM) cave in Belize. Learn a little about the logistics, the how-tos and what to expect. I can tell you from personal experience, you can prepare all you want for this tour, but there is no way to predict what the journey to this archaeological treasure will mean to you. I’ll try and avoid sentimentality, but the ATM cave is exceptional and dramatic. It pulses with energy — its intriguing history is easily rivaled by its surprising beauty. I had the privilege to explore ATM in 2005, and it is still stands out as one of the most memorable experiences I have ever encountered in my travels.

By Elizabeth Coughlan
Our tour of the Actun Tunichil Muknal (ATM) cave in Belize was a truly amazing experience, and not for the faint-hearted! Although you don’t have to be an experienced rock climber to explore the cave, you do need to be in good shape to cope with the ruggedness of the terrain. But we wouldn’t have missed it for anything!

The Actun Tunichil Muknal cave (Cave of the Stone Sepulcher) was, and is, a sacred place for the Mayas. They possibly thought that caves led to the underworld (Xibalba), and were places of sacrifice and religious ceremonies to the gods there. The site was excavated between 1996 and 2000 and about 200 pottery pieces and 14 skeletons were discovered. Many of these remain in the cave today, and excavation continue, making it a living museum.

The ATM cave is located in Belize’s 6,700-acre Tapir Mountain Nature Reserve, and due to its historical significance and fragility, only a few tour companies are licensed to take trips there. We were advised to wear shorts and T-shirts with socks and closed-toe shoes or boots and to take extra clothing to change into at the end of the tour. You’re going to get wet on this adventure. Swim suits are not necessary, but quick-dry clothing is recommended. It was also impressed upon us that, for our own safety, we had to comply with the guide’s instructions and keep with the group at all times.

We left San Ignacio at 8:30 a.m. and drove for about 45 minutes, until we arrived at the Tapir Mountain Nature Reserve. Once there, Carlos and Jaime, our guides, gave us helmets, dry bags and lunch packs in preparation for our trek through the jungle. Our trek took us over three lots of river, through knee-deep water and over slippery rocks, but it wasn’t really hard going. As we hiked, Jaime and Carlos told us about various plants on the way, accompanied by the all-too-human screeches of the howler monkeys. Apparently, there also tapir, jaguar, silky anteaters and white-tailed deer in the jungle, but, unsurprisingly, we didn’t see anything as we crashed about on the uneven ground. We did see lots of termites though, and some of our party even ate some, at Jaime’s prompting. Yuk!

After about an hour, we arrived at the encampment, in front of the entrance to the cave, where we ate lunch and divested ourselves of everything but our cameras and the clothes we were wearing. The hourglass-shaped entrance to the cave is filled with blue-green water, shimmering among the moss-covered rocks and lush jungle foliage. We divided into two groups and, helmets on and cameras in the dry bags, we ventured into the water and the darkness of the cave. After the heat of the jungle, it was refreshing, although rather eerie as only our headlamps lit our way ahead. Tiny fish nibbled at our legs and suddenly there was a great fluttering of wings as our shrieks disturbed the bats from their sleep; we were grateful for the helmets!

After the short swim, we climbed out onto dry land and clambered up over the rocks. Our headlamps flashed around the cave as we ducked and dove, picking out the stalactites and stalagmites and white flowstone hanging like drapes. For about 2 hours, we slithered in and out of water as we slowly progressed through the cave, until we reached a large dry cathedral-like cavern. Here, we had to take off our shoes and carry on in our socks to preserve the floor of the cave from damage by the oil in our skin and because, for the local people, this is still a sacred place.

This was the ancient place of sacrifice for the Mayas. Bits of broken pottery, dating back a thousand years, littered the floor. In the light from our headlamps, we glimpsed the occasional skull and the remains of 6 of the 14 skeletons already discovered by archaeologists. Jaime then led us up a rickety ladder to a separate cavern where the skeleton of the “Cristal Lady” lay, so-called because the dripping calcite has coated her bones. She is sprawled on the floor, with one leg akimbo, and is believed to have been about 16 to 19 years of age at her death. Hers is the only female skeleton – all the others are male. Archaeologists believe that she was sacrificed to Chac, a god of the underworld, to ask him for rain during a time of drought.

By this time, we were quite cold and tired and still had the return journey to do. There was no other way out, however, and the journey back I was grateful for the time to reflect. Everyone was quiet and thoughtful. We had seen something quite extraordinary. We finished our adventure exhausted and with a few acquired minor scrapes and bruises, but we had loved every minute. Would we do it again? In a heartbeat!

By Beth Conway | Posted in 1, Archaeological Site, Belize tours, Natural Environment, Travel Journal | Tagged , , , , , , | Comments (1)